A short flight northwards from Lima is the city of Jaen. Flying directly to the Amazonas region capital, Chachapoyas is also an option. Starting in Jaen allowed our team to see a bit more of the regional landscape during an adventurous 5 hour drive. José of Turismo Explorer is an Amazonas local and knowledgeable guide. He was our driver and living History Channel. José was feeding us endless information about the terrain and sites as we stopped at lookouts and vistas en route to Chachapoyas. 

Amazonas is one of Peru’s less visited regions simply because Peru is home to so many great spots. But that doesn’t mean Amazonas isn’t as exciting as the more famous Cusco area or the absurd mountains of Ancash. I was fortunate to have just explored both those regions.

Top places to visit in Peru

My goal for this trip was to explore the cloud forest of Peru’s north. Then trek to see the ancient cities of the region, and see the world's third tallest waterfall, Gocta falls. This would be made possible with the planning and support of our guide José and the Turismo Explorer team. Since the pandemic began, he has been regularly visiting archeological sites popular with tourists to find them overgrown with the decline of foot traffic. Something we would soon see up close. 

After a relaxing day at José’s hostel, Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostal Boutique, we set off for the Belén Valley. Led along a rigorous trail that meandered up and over ridges and through valleys, I learned the histories of the many Inca and pre-Inca cities that were now being swallowed up by the jungle. Muddy, wet conditions did make the trail slippery and strenuous, with the myth of the Amazonas region as being flat was quickly dispelled within the first mile of the trail. 

Amazing backpacking route in Peru

After a challenging first day, the team descended down into a small village en route. This is where gracious hosts offered a room in their home with a cozy bed and shower. There was also an amazing show of true community spirit at a fundraising soccer game for a little girl in the village who was suffering from a cancerous tumor—a humbling experience putting the days challenges into perspective. 

The next day, José led us out of the charming village to on a true mission. Climb 5,000 feet up, ascending out of the valley and back up into the cloud forest. Along the trail were more lost cities that without a worthy guide, you’d likely miss altogether.   

“Come over here.” José said as he peeled back a blanket of vines. “Look at this. It’s pre-Inca.”   

And sure enough, there was an ancient wall whose stonework was still impeccable. Even after all the centuries of earthquakes, pouring rain, and creeping vines and tree roots trying their best to consume the walls. 

“There were dozens, even hundreds of rooms here.” José said. “You can still see the levels of the city. The upper levels of course we’re for the most important people.”   

The Amazonas region is a haven for those who enjoy archaeology and history. Here, you’ll find many ancient cities, impressive tombs, and cities of the dead spread all throughout the region which hold sacred burial sites. They are a spooky yet beautiful reminder of the length’s humans go to honor the dead.   

Third Tallest Waterfall in the World

Continuing the trip through the canyons of the cloud forest, we encountered a variety of beautiful waterfalls. This included the towering Gocta Falls. It wasn’t until 2004 that a foreign traveler noticed the exceptionally large waterfall and came to find out that it is the third tallest waterfall in the world! 

The Epic Trails crew and I left Amazonas with an appreciation and wonder for the region. This diverse, and interesting destination is far more beautiful than you may expect. Peru does not disappoint. It only invites you deeper into our beautiful world and the next region around the corner. 

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Backpacking the tallest peak in Peru

Huascaran, Peru’s tallest peak at over 22,000 feet and, along with this region’s gorgeous landscapes, is why mountaineers and trekkers all around the world flock to this destination. The culture and feel of the town of Huaraz, where our adventure begins, is a flock-worthy destination too. I was happy to be back. 

I was welcomed by Virgilio, the lead guide of our confidence inspiring team from Explorandes in Huaraz. Explorandes is an award-winning company recognized for its commitment to responsible tourism.

Route planning

Over cerveza with Virgilio, we poured over our backpacking plans at a well-known climbing hangout, The Andino Café. There we traced our fingers along the map of the Cordillera Huayhuash and the segment of trail we would tackle. A 4-day route (truncated from the classic 12-day version) in a remote pocket of rugged mountains that pierce the sky with the snow-covered needles of Siula Grande, Jirishanka, and Rondoy. 

High altitude hiking in Peru

The high altitude in the Huayhuash must be taken seriously. To aid in our acclimatization, we visited Huascarán National Park and Llanganuco Valley for a hike among the Cordillera Blanca mountains. Visiting lakes Chinancocha, Orconcocha and the stunning, Llanganuco was inspirational. I described it as an “azure lake that practically glows in a glacier carved valley of granite.” This acclimatization hike was a worthy adventure of its own.  

Support crew for the international trekking

After a breathtaking drive towards the Cordillera Huayhuash trailhead, Virgilio introduced us to two more local characters from our support team. Our chef Gregorio (a.k.a. Chileno) and Rosalino, our muleteer. With the team assembled and camp set, it was our first moment to sit back and admire the peaks. The peaks that make up the core of the Cordillera Hauyhuash.

“The verticality of them seems impossible.” – Eric Hanson

Sambunya mountain pass

We embarked on an early morning departure for Sambunya mountain pass. Our supports, Chilano and Rosolino, both surpassed us. This gave them a head start on preparing an amazing meal for our arrival. We continued down towards the glacier lake, Solteracocha. We could hear and witness heart-thumping avalanches nearby. 

Camp meals in the Ancash Region

Waking at camp near Jahuacocha Lake we learned that Chilano and Rosalino would be making “Pachamanca” that day. Pachamanca is a meal cooked underground using hot rocks. The Pachamanca tradition honors and celebrates our relationship with the earth. Celebrating our relationship as a team too, we enjoyed the pachamanca and honored the trail with a hike up to a favorite outlook of one of our guides.

Cold mornings in the Ancash Region

The morning's frost covered tents didn’t stop our goal to hike over another mountain pass (Mancanpunta) to a nearby Pocpa village. Rosalino passed us with the donkeys just as we took in the views at the final pass of our adventure. We were about to leave the trails for the city of Chiquan.

If you are interested in more about my time in Peru, check out these videos.

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Inca Trail After a Long Wait

On a mission to seek adventures less traveled, the Epic Trails team began a month-long Peruvian adventure. A weeklong mission exploring the central area of the Cusco Region. This trip was three years in the making, as our tickets were originally for early April 2020. Borders began to close at the beginning of the pandemic. It had been a long wait, and we were ready.

Lesser Known Portion of the Inca Trail

We enjoyed lunch at Calle del Medio, with guides Porfirio and Alberto of Apumayo Expediciones. The Epic Trails crew quickly learned we were in great hands as we ran through our plans for the week. The goal was to follow the route of the escaping Incans. The Spaniards had taken Cusco and the Incas fled. This is a unique and lesser known portion of the Inca Trail.

Peru rafting adventure

Exploring the main square and heart of Cusco right out the door of our accommodations at Hotel Andina was motivating. We ventured North by van along mountain roads flanking ravines carved by glacier-fed rivers. Happy to explore the rivers up close, we met with Pepe Lopez, owner of Apumayo Expediciones.

Rafting the Uramba River

We went on a rafting adventure on the Urbamba River. The put in was just below the town of Ollantaytambo and paddled some adrenaline pumping Class III+ rapids. We were able to see Incan ruins along the banks right from our raft. This was a very cool perspective that not all get to experience. We ended our day at El Mangal Lodge, a remote hostel, restaurant and agrotourism (cocoa plantation) getaway all in one. There we got to participate in all phases of cocoa production. We rested before the multi-day hike.

A broken-down truck caused a delay. We enjoyed the views of peaks and passes covered in stunning lupin flowers. We watched dusk slip away as we were welcomed to the trailhead by a local family with a cuy (guinnea pig) dinner. 

Support for hiking Inca Trail in Peru Mountains

Embarking on the hike, it was clear from the numbers of porters and pack animals that we were going to be well supported. After a scenic river crossing, the uphill began. As we pushed our trekking limits, the team of porters, cooks and arrieros (horse and donkey masters or muleteers) always amazed us. They hastily sped ahead to set up elaborate meals. We thoroughly enjoyed the catered break after a tiring day of hiking the elevated areas in the region. The Apumayo team spared no expense or effort. 

“With three, four, and five course meals prepared regularly, it felt like I was on a luxury cruise liner hiking through the mountains…” – Eric Hanson

High altitude pass on the Inca Trail

The next day was the biggest day for high altitude. We were crossing a mountain pass to get to another valley. Along this pristine section of the Inca Trail we did not see masses of tourists. A shepherd greeted us on our way up to a 15,000 ft pass in the mountains. It was at this pass that our guide Porfilio sang a song to honour his father and family. The last time Porfilio had walked that trail was with his brother 20 years ago.

Descent down the Inca Trail

On our descent, there were signs of local inhabitants as we crossed farmers fields where the Inca trail disappeared under the thick soil and grass. This is where we spent the night.

After wrapping up camp we started on our way again, crossing fields and pig farms, encountering a local farmer. He was wielding an old tool for turning soil. Porfilio, a former farmer, enthusiastically encouraged me to try the tool. This made me appreciate my trips to the supermarket all the more. 

We encountered archeological sites, former trade route meeting places, some designed to honor Mother Earth. I learned about and admired the precise Incan stonework. We came to the end of our trek and the last stand of the Inca empire. This was the stunning ruins of Vitcos. 

The Cusco Region is beautiful

The Cusco Region’s beautiful landscapes, mountains, ravines and sacred sites have been welcoming travelers for decades. The terrain seemingly untouched and local experience was so authentic, if felt as if we had discovered it all over again. If you are looking for adventure on the Inca Trail, consider the Cusco Region of Peru.

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