Why River Kayaking Is Special — And Risky

Rivers are often narrower than lakes or oceans, which means if you capsize, shore is usually within swimming distance. This makes river kayaking generally safe, but the strong and sometimes unpredictable current demands respect. Understanding common river kayaking mistakes is key to staying safe and enjoying your trip.

1. Not Wearing a Proper PFD

One of the most critical river kayaking mistakes is neglecting your Personal Flotation Device (PFD) or lifejacket. Think of your PFD as a seatbelt for the water—it might seem unnecessary 99% of the time but can save your life in that 1% when things go wrong. Importantly, choose a paddling-specific PFD designed for comfort and freedom of movement so you’re less likely to want to remove it mid-trip.

2. Ignoring Water Levels and Current

Many kayakers underestimate how dramatically water levels affect river currents, and how quickly levels can change. High water or flood conditions can make currents much faster and more powerful, increasing the chance of being flipped or swept into hazards.

One of the biggest river kayaking mistakes is heading out without checking current water conditions or knowing when to bail early if the water level starts to change and things get dangerous.

3. Using the Wrong Kayak for River Conditions

Taking the wrong kayak on a river can be a fatal mistake. If there is only very mild current, then any kayak will do the trick. But if the current gets a little stronger, choosing the right kayak is critical. In particular, recreational sit-inside kayaks without bulkheads may fill with water if swamped, making it difficult or impossible to control. Bulkheads are walls inside the kayak that separate the boat into separate watertight compartments. Sit-on-top kayaks and inflatable kayaks are always good choices for rivers with current, because they won’t swamp and always float.

Understanding your kayak’s capabilities is key to avoiding serious river kayaking mistakes. Learn how to pick the best kayak for your next river adventure.

4. Underestimating Hazards Like Low-Head Dams and Strainers

Low-head dams and strainers (fallen trees or log jams) are deceptively dangerous. They can trap kayakers and swimmers underwater, making them deadly river hazards. One of the most avoidable river kayaking mistakes is not scouting ahead or portaging around these obstacles, especially if the current pushes you toward them.

5. Not Wearing a Helmet When Needed

While not every river trip requires a helmet, paddlers should wear one when there’s a reasonable chance of flippingin white water above Class I. Skipping helmet use is a common river kayaking mistake that can lead to serious injury.

Stay Safe and Enjoy the Rivers

Rivers are some of the most rewarding places to kayak, but they demand respect and preparation. Avoiding these top river kayaking mistakes—wearing your PFD, checking water levels, choosing the right kayak, scouting hazards, and wearing a helmet when needed—will keep you safe and help you fully enjoy your adventure.

Paddle smart and make rivers your favorite paddling spot!

The post Top 5 Deadly River Kayaking Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them!) appeared first on Hazeadventure.

When to Use a Skeg 

If you paddle a touring or sea kayak on a windy day, you might notice that when the skeg is up, the kayak naturally turns towards the direction of the wind. This phenomenon is known as weather cocking and happens when your kayak has a keel that cuts through the water. The kayak does not start turning because of the direction of the bow. Instead, it is because the wind blows the stern of the kayak downwind faster than it blows the bow. 

To stop weather cocking you have two main options. The first is to paddle harder on one side than on the other. This way, you can keep the kayak moving more or less in a straight line. However, this is not an ideal or comfortable solution for long as it causes you to paddle unevenly. 

The other option is to use something to keep the stern in place, which is where the skeg comes in. 

How to Use a Skeg

When you notice you need to paddle unevenly to keep your kayak straight, it is time to drop the skeg. Skegs can be lowered to different levels. The depth of the skeg will affect how firmly the stern is held into place. If you lower it fully, it is possible that the stern is held too firmly in place. This might cause the kayak to start turning in the other direction. 

The amount you need to drop the skeg depends on the strength and direction of the wind and your kayak's tendency to weather cock. Every kayak with a keel does weather cock slightly. However, a lot of inflatable kayaks do not weather cock. They have a flat bottom, which is why many of them do not need a skeg. 

If you have a skeg, it just takes a little experimenting to see how much you need to lower it. The goal is to be able to paddle evenly on both sides and in a straight line. The depth the skeg needs to go will differ every time you are out on the water. However, using your skeg will make paddling in the wind much more enjoyable! 

Kayak: Melker Ulvon
Paddles:  Gearlab Outdoors Greenland Ipik
PFD:   NRS OSO Lifejacket
Storage: Gearlab Outdoors Deck Pod 2
Clothing:  NRS Short Sleeved Guide Shirt
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post How to Use a Skeg appeared first on Hazeadventure.

On the box it says that the BlackPak Pro is built for life. It also comes with a Lifetime Guarantee. Anytime I’ve ever had an issue with a YakAttack product they’ve replaced it, no questions asked. So that’s really awesome.

Another thing I like is that the BlackPak Pro is fully customizable and features strong, lightweight construction. This particular model also comes with four rod tubes.

Unboxing the YakAttack BlackPak Pro

I'll start by opening the box and taking a look at what’s inside.

Today I’m putting together an olive green BlackPak Pro. This was a special edition color for the fall of 2022. Other than that, it’s identical to the standard 13 x 16-inch model.

The four rod tubes are right on top inside the box. I’m just going to set those aside for now while I look at the first page of the instructions.

Step 1 – Connect Tethers to the Tether Tubes

The first step is connecting the tethers to the tether tubes.

For this I'll use Kit E. It's the only kit with a bungee in it.

To start, I’ll tie an overhand knot in the end of the bungee.

Next, I’ll feed that through one of the hooks.

You’ll see a box or opening on one side of the bottom of the hook. Make sure to feed the line through this side. It's the side that's completely closed on all four sides.

After tying the knot and passing the line through the square opening on the hook, I'll tie another overhand knot on the other end of the bungee.

Now I’ll pass this end through the opening in the top of the rod tube.

Next, I’ll pull it tight and set the line where it’s going to rest on the rod tube.

Yakattack BlackPak Pro Installation: The Rod Tube Addendum

For example, I prefer to push the bungee through the end of the rod tube before tying the knot on the end. This makes it a little easier to pass the line through. Then I tie the knot after I've done that.

Another thing I noticed is that the instructions have an addendum explaining the rod tubes in detail. Make sure you dig those out at this point!

This step is actually in the instructions. You just wrap it around the bottom, pull it tight past the bungee through the opening, and let the knot tuck into the hole provided for it.

So now the bungee is wrapped around the bottom, but there's nothing to retain it.

Again, I pulled the four small screws out of Kit E. This is the kit for putting the rod tethers on the tether tubes.

These four screws will be used to install this piece so you just put it on the bottom here.

I’m going to use a screwdriver for this because it's a short screw. However, I'll use the drill in the following steps. If you use a drill, just be careful not strip things out when you’re tightening everything down.

Now all you have to do is repeat this process with the rest of the rod tubes.

Step 2 – Fasten the First Side Panel to the Bottom

Now that the tether tubes are finished I'll fasten the panels together.

For this I'll need the four side panels and the bottom panel.

If you’ll be using a power drill make sure it has variable speed and torque settings.

This will allow you to slow the speed and put the torque at the lowest setting. You’ll be screwing into plastic, so this will prevent you from stripping everything out.

The underside of the bottom panel is corrugated whereas the top is flat. Before starting, make sure the corrugated side is facing down.

The flat side will be the top of the floor inside the box. This is where you'll set your gear and tackle.

To fit the bottom and side panels together, just line everything up with the convenient slots at the bottom.

Step 3 – Attach the Second Side Panel

Now I’ll attach the second side panel and start adding some screws to hold everything together.

At this point, you just want to put the four screws up the sides of each panel. For now, hold off on putting the screws in along the bottom.

As clearly stated in the directions, this hardware is in Kit A.

You also want to make sure that the screws are straight and line up properly before you start tightening them down. Again, I'm putting very little pressure on the drill.

Here you can see where the screws come through on the other side.

Step 4 – Add the Last Two Side Panels

For Step 4, I’ll just add the next side panel and repeat what I did in the previous step until all the sides are in place.

Just remember to go all the way around before screwing everything together at the bottom. This is important because you may need to manipulate the ends to get everything lined up.

The first few go together pretty easily. However, with the last one you may have to pull the bottom out, line up the pieces, and push everything back together.

Steps 5 and 6 – Install the Side and Bottom Screws

Step 5 is installing the rest of the side screws, and Step 6 is installing the screws around the bottom. Both steps are pretty self explanatory.

It's also worth mentioning that there are three screws on the 13-inch sides and four on the 16-inch sides.

Now I have all four sides and the floor installed and screwed down on my BlackPak Pro.

Step 7 – Install the Rubber Feet

I really like that the BlackPak Pro has rubber feet. They give it tons of grip that will prevent it from sliding around in your boat or vehicle. Trust me, this is a big improvement over the old BlackPaks that didn’t have rubber feet.

In this step I'll use the hardware from Kit B.

I'll put a flat washer into each rubber foot first. Then I'll add the screw.

Next, I’ll line these up on the bottom and go all the way around until all four feet are installed.

Step 8 – Install Rubber Pieces

Now I’ll install the other rubber pieces that were in Kit B. As a reminder, this is the kit I opened in Step 7.

These pieces go on the lid, so I'll grab it on the bottom side.

You’ll see there are little standoffs in four places in the middle of each side. That’s where these pieces go.

They have a wedge shape that aligns with the draft or angle of the box. This makes it easy to get them into the correct position. You just have to place them so they’re oriented in the same way.

Another way to think about it is that there's a standoff on one side that goes toward the bottom of the lid. The angle of this standoff should line up with the angle on each of the rubber pieces.

Then it's just a matter of pushing them into place. They're very simple to install.

Step 9 – Preassemble the Hinges

To preassemble the hinges I'll use the hardware in Pack C or Kit C.

First I'll dump everything onto the table so I can find the two hinge pieces I'll need.

You'll notice that one side has a recess for the screws while the other side is flat. You want to orient them so that the recess is on the outside of where the hinge is going to be.

Digging through the hardware, you'll find a number 8 by 32, inch-and-three-quarter hinge pin screw. Make sure the hole lines up all the way through both hinge pieces.

The nice thing is that it doesn't matter which side you go through. Also, the lock nut goes into the slot so you don't need an extra tool to hold it in place while you're installing the hinge pin screw.

Just make sure it's engaged into the lock nut so it can't back itself off. The looser it is, the easier it'll be to open and close the box.

I like to put a little friction on it so that when the lid is open it will stay open and not want to fall back down on itself.

Now I'll just repeat this process with the other hinge.

Step 10 – Attach the Hinges to the Lid

Now that I know where I want my hinges, I'm going to put the BlackPak Pro aside and grab the lid.

The longer side is going to go on the top.

And again, you’re just lining up the holes that are already here. The really cool thing about this is that no drilling is required.

For this you'll need the number 10, 1/2-inch screws.

Basically they're the shorter ones in that kit and they have a spaced out thread pattern.

You really want to go slow with these because they thread quickly.

Step 11 – Attach the Latch Points

Before attaching the lid to the BlackPak, I'll attach the latch points on the opposite side from where the hinges are installed.

There are two parts to the latch mechanism. The other part that actually goes on the box is in a separate kit. However, the part you need for this step is in Kit C.

Again, these go opposite from where the hinges are installed. You’ll see that there are pre-drilled holes that allow you to line everything up and install those easily.

They're going to use the same number 10 screws that I used to install the hinges.

The instructions also mention that you can get away with just using one of the latches. There's actually a place in the middle of each side where you can screw just one of the latches down.

That said, I prefer using both latches. It takes a few extra minutes to install both, but it's worth it for the extra security. With two latches your gear is more likely to stay inside the BlackPak if you drop it or if it tips over.

Step 12 – Attach the Lid

In Step 12 I’m going to attach the lid to the box.

It's pretty easy if you're doing one of the 13 x 13-inch or 16 by 16-inch BlackPaks because they’re perfectly square.

The hinges have specific places where they screw in and you're going to use those same 1/2-inch screws.

Also, it's easier to attach the lid if the box is turned on its side.

Step 13 – Attach the Latch Clips

The instructions are pretty clear for Step 13 and there are a few images to help.

But just to show you, I'm going to hang the part so you'll see what it’ll look like when the lid is closed and locked.

You're going to take this part and line it up with the screw holes that are already on the pack. You'll be able to see the three holes clearly. They coincide with the three holes in the part you’re attaching.

When you're putting these two parts together they kind of snap into place. If you go in and line those top two screw tabs behind it, then you can push and lock these pieces in.

Then I usually just hang the latch where it's going to go, make sure these holes are lined up, and install the screws in Kit D.

Again, it may be easier to turn the pack on its end so you're doing this from the top instead of the side. But in this instance I’m doing it from the side so it’s easier to see.

Now that I have one installed I can do the second one in the same manner.

Step 14 – Install the Omni Corner Brackets

Now that the latches are in place, the next step is to install the Omni corner brackets. These are tether or tie down points that allow you to secure the BlackPak in the back of your kayak.

On one of my boats I have it closer and there are tie down points on the handle itself. So I didn't actually use these because I'm just using the handles for securement instead of the corner brackets.

But I’m going to show you how to install those anyway because you may need them with your set up.

On the corners here you'll see two screw holes kind of close to the top. They're going to line right up with the holes on the corner brackets.

Now we need to go back to the parts from Kit C. I’ll be using those 1/2-inch screws again.

Here again, I find it easier to turn the Pak on its side so the parts don't fall off.

Be sure to orient these so the hook is facing up. Now I’ll just repeat this step at each corner.

You can attach the Omni corners in several different locations up and down each corner. But first, you may want to set the Pak in your kayak to get an idea of which position will work best for you.

They can use 1-inch webbing and they also have hooks to attach if you already have bungees installed in your tank well.

You can also utilize the clips that come in the kit.

Step 15 – Attach the Tether Tubes

There are tons of options when it comes to tether tube placement. Just keep in mind that where you put the tubes will affect the width of the BlackPak.

If you put the tubes on the side it'll make the whole thing wider. So you may want to check the available space in your tank well first.

In this situation, I'm just going to use three tether tubes because this BlackPak will go in my Jackson Kayak Kilroy. On my Kilroy, the tank is relatively long and narrow.

So I’ll put the tethers on the end to keep the BlackPak as thin as possible. Plus, I really don't take a lot of rods when I fish out of the Kilroy.

To install these I'll use the number 10, 1-inch screws from Kit E.

Now that I’ve decided where to put the rod holders, I'll flip the BlackPak over so I can set them on the top.

To get the maximum distance between each one of these I'm going to offset them. So the middle one will be lower than the two on the ends. Moving the holders as far out as I can will prevent my reels from banging together.

Once you have that top screw lined up the other ones will fall into place.

Now I have the three tether tubes installed.

I really don't need the fourth one, but I’ll keep it handy because I may use it later.

Check the Instructions for Rod Tube Placement Suggestions

Depending on where you end up putting them, you can actually raise or lower the mounting position using the offset screw holes. Just keep in mind that the higher ones will mount the tubes slightly above the lid.

This won't interfere with the lid in any way. Either way, you should probably use the lower screw holes if you don't want your rods sticking up too high.

The only difference is if you have a shorter rod butt it's going to be fine. However, if your rod butt is a little longer, it may actually hit the floor of your kayak. If so, you may want to use the higher mounting holes. This will allow it to engage the slot in the tether tuber, especially with a spinning rod.

Step 16 – Attach the Handles

The final step is attaching the handles.

Again, you can configure them in a number of different ways to suit your needs.

In this example, I'll attach them to either side near the middle. You can go all the way to the top if that's better for you.

Just look for the holes that match up with your desired location, line the handle up, and screw it on using the 1/2-inch screws from Kit C. These are the screws I used for the hinges and four corner pieces.

When done, I'll repeat the process on the other side.

And again, you'll see this gap in the middle which is for 1-inch webbing. You can also utilize the clips that are included. They're called Omni hooks. They were designed to work with the corners but they also work in the handles.

Wrap Up

One huge benefit of the YakAttack BlackPak Pro is that there are so many ways to configure everything. Actually, it can be a little overwhelming. It may help to assemble the box and give it a dry run in your kayak before adding all the accessories.

This will allow you to see where it'll be situated, how you'll tie it down, where the tether tubes should go, and how you'll open and close it from the seat.

Once you have the basics figured out, you can dial everything else in from there.

Now I just need to attach the Omni hooks to the bungee on my kayak. You can also attach the hooks to bungees that you want to add to the kit.

So that's how to unpack and assemble a YakAttack BlackPak Pro in a nutshell. I recently had it set up for redfishing in my latest journal, Freeport Redfish Fishing.

For my full review of the YakAttack BlackPak Pro, be sure to check that out as well on the channel.

Accessories: Yakattack BlackPack Pro

The post YakAttack BlackPak Pro Assembly appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Carving Drill

Carving is an important skill for a variety of reasons. It is how you make solid and efficient eddy turns and good ferries. It also unlocks the door to many cool play moves like surfing waves. So it is invaluable for whitewater kayakers to learn to carve instead of letting the boat spin out. 

How To Do the Carving Drill

First, you need to start kayaking and get some speed. Then you will establish turn momentum, put your kayak on edge, and use only forward strokes on the inside of your turn. Doing this keeps the kayak carving in a circle. 

It is only possible to take strokes on the inside of a turn and keep going in the same direction if you do two things. The first thing is to keep the boat balanced on the edge. You do this by balancing on one butt cheek and fine-tuning the tilt using the opposite knee. 

The second thing is to have the correct paddle position. Your paddle has to be vertical when you take a stroke. If the paddle shaft is more horizontal, it will kill your spin momentum. Because the paddle is vertical, you are not relying on it as a brace. It does not provide any balancing support, therefore, you have to rely on your own balance. 

How to Apply Power

Once you become comfortable with that carving drill in both directions (which is important), you need to add power. I was once told that whitewater kayaking is all about technique and not power. There is some truth to that because good technique will take you a long way in the sport, while power alone will take you less far. But, as in any sport, you need good technique, but for that to be useful, you need to be able to apply power. 

So how do you start applying power to the carving drill? Well, you need to get moving and carving again. The next step is to start pulling more aggressively on the paddle. With every stroke, you should thrust your hips forward. When you do this, you involve the whole body, which provides more power. 

Application of the Carving Drill

You might recognize this as the boof stroke. It is the stroke you take when you go off a waterfall and thrust your boat over the lip. When you are boof off a waterfall, you need to hold your boat on edge. The last stroke before you go off the waterfall should be vertical so that you keep your boat straight. Boofing is just one of many applications of this stroke. 

A more common application of the carving drill is in eddy turns. When you approach an eddy and want to cut into the main current, you need to paddle toward the eddy line with some speed. As you cross the eddy line, you should thrust the kayak across the line and into the main current to avoid getting spun. 

Pivot Turns

This drill is intended for kayaks with a slicey stern, so half-slice sterns or playboats. It does not work in a creek boat. 

So what are pivot turns? Pivot turns involve sinking one end of the kayak (usually the stern) under the water to make your kayak spin faster. Pivot turns are important to learn because they allow you to control your kayak's spin momentum. Whitewater kayaks are designed to turn, not to go straight, so you need to learn how to control the spinning momentum a whitewater kayak already has. 

Pivot turns also allow you to harness the power of buoyancy energy. Buoyancy energy is the energy your kayak has any time the end of it is underwater. The end of your kayak does not want to stay underwater instead, it wants to come to the surface. You can use this to your advantage. Pivot turns also teach you edge control. 

A Forward Sweep Pivot Turn

You can practice the pivot turn using a forward sweep and a backward sweep. To do a forward sweep turn, you should sink the stern of the kayak as you take a forward sweep. 

Once the stern has been sunk, it doesn’t want to be underwater so, before the stroke is finished you have to level off the kayak. If you don’t level it off in time, the stern will “hit the wall” and pop back off to the surface. 

If you do level the stern off in time, then it comes back to the surface in the direction you want it to come back in. This keeps your kayak spinning in full circle.

There are some useful things to note when doing a pivot turn. At the beginning of the stroke, you can be the most aggressive at throwing your stern downwards. As your stern goes further underwater, it has more and more buoyancy energy, so you start to lose power.

This is the point where you need to level your angle so that it is completely level by the time you finish your stroke. So you do not go directly from underwater to completely leveled in one go. Instead, you start as aggressively as possible and gradually level it off. 

How to Practice the Pivot Turn

You can practice pivot turns in a variety of different ways. Firstly, you can practice it with a forward sweep, making sure to get comfortable with it on both sides. After all, you won’t only have to edge in one direction. You can also practice it with a back sweep. This is known as a stern squirt. 

You could practice this on eddy lines, but it is better to practice on flat water. When doing pivot turns on flat water, you can see if and when you are doing something wrong. If you don’t level your boat off on time when on flat water, you will “hit the wall”, and lose all of the spin momentum you initiated. 

Backpaddling

Backpaddling is a simple skill that is very important for multiple reasons. 

1. It Develops Backpaddling Awareness

The more backpaddling practice you have, the more you develop your backpaddling awareness. The most likely time to panic is when you are turned backward while on a rapid. And the reason this can feel so scary is that most people have far more awareness when paddling forward than when facing backward. This awareness comes with practice and spending time going backward. 

The biggest jump in my whitewater skills came one summer when a buddy and I decided to spend the entire month doing our regular paddles backward. We ran every rapid backward, caught every wave backward, and did everything we would normally do forwards, but backward instead. We were beaten and battered a few times, but our whitewater skills had improved massively by the end of the month. 

I am not recommending that everyone should try this. But, there are less aggressive ways to practice backpaddling and develop your backpaddling awareness. For instance, when you get a nice eddy line, practice your eddy turns backward, practice your ferries backward, and if you are bold enough, you can even practice rapids backward. 

2. It Works The Front Deltoid Muscles

Backpaddling works the front deltoids. The deltoids are muscles in your chest that you don’t often use when forward paddling. Working these helps to balance the body out when you do a lot of forward paddling. 

Backpaddling Tips

When backpaddling, particularly with a slicey stern, it helps to keep your weight slightly forwards. If you tilt your kayak slightly into each backward stroke, it lifts your stern edges out of the water. 

These are the three drills that all whitewater paddlers should practice regularly and master. Doing these three things regularly will have a profound effect on your whitewater kayaking. 

The Pyranha Ripper 2

In this video I used the Pyranha Ripper 2 half slice whitewater kayak. This boat is a great river running kayak and is fun to play with as well on waves. Check out my review here: The Pyranha Ripper 2 Review: The Best All-Round Whitewater Kayak?

Kayak: Pyranha Ripper 2
PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Zen Whitewater Vest
Paddle:  Aqua Bound Shred
Shirt:  NRS Guide Short Sleeved Men’s Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts

The post Key Tips for Whitewater Kayakers appeared first on Hazeadventure.

There are a lot of advantages to using tandem kayaks. They are wide and, therefore, stable. Tandem kayaks can move fast because you have two people driving them along. But you can also power tandem kayaks with just one person. So you don't need to paddle all the time. This is great for people who tire easily, are lazy, or prefer relaxing on the water. 

So, here are 3 tandem kayak tips to make the most out of your tandem kayaking experience. 

Tandem Kayak Tip #1

Tandem kayaks have often been called divorce boats. That is because paddling adventures in a tandem kayak can become heated debates on the water. But that only happens when people go for a paddle without appreciating why the other person is on the water. When you understand what both paddlers hope to get from an experience on the water, you can adjust the paddling trip plans to accommodate that. 

For example, when I recently went on a trip with my wife, we planned what we wanted out of the trip. I like pushing myself to my limits while my wife prefers relaxing on the water. So if we had planned a long trip, she would’ve become overly tired, maybe a little cranky, and neither of us would enjoy it. Instead, I created a paddling trip that we would both enjoy and altered my expectations. We ended up having a wonderful experience.

Tandem kayaks do not need to be divorce boats. You can have an incredible experience with the people you love, on the water, in a tandem kayak. You just need to have the right expectations. 

Tip #2: Stronger Paddler Should Be in the Stern

There are a couple of reasons why the stronger or more active paddler should sit in the stern. If the person in the bow stops paddling, the person at the back can continue to paddle and keep control of the kayak. You can keep making good headway with only the person in the stern kayaking. On the other hand, if the person in the stern stops paddling, the person paddling in the bow will have more difficulty controlling the kayak. So the stronger and more active paddler should always be in the stern of the boat. 

Tip #3. Paddle in Unison on Same Side

Paddling in unison looks prettier when you are out on the water. But more importantly, you are less likely to clash paddles when you paddle in time with each other. Ultimately this will make paddling in a tandem kayak far less frustrating because you can take a clean and full stroke each time. By paddling in unison you will have a less frustrating and more efficient trip. 

When paddling in unison, it is important to note that the person in the bow of the kayak sets the pace. The stern paddler then matches the bow paddler's pace. Sometimes your natural stroke pace might be different from each other. To deal with this the stern paddler can always communicate and ask the bow paddler to adjust their pace. 

Tip #4 Use Opposite Sweep Stokes to Turn

The most efficient way to turn a tandem kayak is to use opposite sweep strokes on opposite sides. To do this the bow paddler does a forward sweep stroke on one side of the kayak while the stern paddler does a reverse sweep stroke on the other side. This turns the kayak very effectively. 

What is a sweep stroke? Well, that is a stroke where you hold the paddle low and sweep the paddle out in a wide arc. You are not propelling the kayak forward in this stroke, you are turning it as much as possible. 

Using these tips I enjoyed my last tandem kayaking trip a lot more than I expected. So I will be adding more tandem kayaking to my paddling trips in the future. 

If you're interested in this specific tandem kayak, feel free to read my full Wilderness Systems Targa 130T review as well.

PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Kayaks: Wilderness Systems Targa 130t
Paddle:  Aqua Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece
Shirts and Tops:  NRS Guide Short Sleeved Men’s Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Tandem Kayak Tips appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Find Accountability Partners

I find it difficult to stay on track with my workouts when I feel alone. So having a friend or family member that I can text and check in with really motivates me to keep going. 

An accountability partner essentially encourages you to be more disciplined to get the workout done. You know that your friend is waiting for your score. And you know that they’re relying on you for motivation also. So for me, having an accountability partner has really helped—especially on those days when I absolutely dreaded my workout. 

Plan Your Workout

Another thing that has really helped me with staying consistent with exercise is to take the guesswork out of it. It’s hard to schedule a workout into your day when you don’t know what you’re going to be doing. And it’s even harder when you have to put together a workout routine.

To help with this, I use a couple of different programs to set up what I’m going to be doing in my workout. There are yoga challenges, CrossFit programs, and even my gym has an app that gives me daily workouts. 

By not having to plan your workout down to a T, you’re really taking the guesswork out. And allowing yourself to be a little less stressed in regard to your exercise. 

Set Goals

My third tip for how to stay consistent with exercise is to set goals. For example, If you put in place unrealistic goals—like running 20 kilometers every day—you aren’t going to be motivated to even start. Instead, think of goals that are suited to your fitness level. 

At the end of the day, attainable goals make me feel more motivated, they help me see my progress, and they give me that dopamine hit that exercise is famous for. 

What I’ll usually do is at the start of the year, I will set a New Year’s resolution for how many miles I want to run that year. Even if I just go outside and run one mile, that is one mile ticked off my yearly goal. 

There are so many different ways that you can set goals. So choose the ones that make sense for you. 

Bring the Kids With You

My final tip is to bring the kids along with you—or your husband. Set up fun events for the whole family, like races or activities that you know everyone will be excited about. That way, you’re all getting in your exercise, spending time as a family, and having fun in the process.

How to Stay Consistent with Exercise: Conclusion

Those four tips are how I’ve managed to stay consistent with exercise and turn working out into a habit. Now my days are always much better once I’ve spent time burning off some energy as exercise makes me a better mom, a better wife, and a better person overall. 

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Don’t forget to check out our YouTube channel, Great Family Adventure, and keep an eye out for more awesome videos we’ll be publishing shortly.

If you enjoyed this article and are hungry for more family adventure tips, tricks, reviews, and adventures, head on over to the Great Family Adventure YouTube channel and feel free to sign up for our Hazeadventure.com newsletter.

Kayaks: Jackson Kayak Rockstar
Life Vest: NRS Zen PFD

The post How to Stay Consistent with Exercise appeared first on Hazeadventure.

How do you know which footwear to wear for kayaking or canoeing? Read on to learn about what footwear is currently on there on the market, as well as which footwear is the most practical for your specific needs.

Kayak Boots or Kayaking Shoes, How to Pick

There are a few different factors that dictate which footwear you should be wearing.

Warmth of Kayak Boots

If you are dealing with cold air or water, and keeping your feet warm is a challenge, then you really need to be looking at neoprene-style shoes or boots. Neoprene is very warm, insulating, and waterproof.

If you are kayaking in warm conditions, then you need a kayaking shoe that keeps your feet cool but will protect them. That is where a water shoe, or closed-toe sandal, really comes in handy.

I would advise against a traditional, open-toe sandal for kayaking, because sand, rocks, pebbles, or anything else can just enter your shoe from almost any angle. That just makes it uncomfortable. When walking in the current, these sandals may slip off in the water, which can be dangerous. The only exception to this is the Astral PFD sandal which uses PFD straps to let you really cinch the shoe onto your foot.

The Soles of the Kayaking Shoe

When we talk about the soles of any type of footwear, the question really is flexibility versus protection. If you are doing a lot of walking and portaging, you want a sole that provides a lot of protection. On the other hand, when you are mostly sitting in a kayak or a canoe you want a sole that offers flexibility.

Flexibility in the sole of the shoe allows the shoe to bend into the position you want it in when sitting in a kayak. That makes it more comfortable. A stiff sole requires your ankle to conform to the shape of the boat, rather than the shoe, making it more uncomfortable and sometimes even painful.

That's one of the main reasons that hiking boots and trail shoes aren’t as good for kayaking or canoeing. These shoes are designed to provide a great footprint on the ground and support your foot to stop it from rolling. But when you are in a kayak or a canoe you want the sole to be able to twist and conform to the shape of the boat.

The bottom line is that flexibility in the sole is really nice for paddling. The amount of protection required on the bottom of the sole really depends on the amount of walking, portaging, and the terrain you will be using the footwear on.

The Fit of the Kayaking Shoes

Obviously, when we talk about fit, you need footwear that will correctly fit your foot. But more importantly than that, will that footwear stay on your foot when you are swimming? Or when you are walking through walking or current? Not all footwear will stay on your feet well when swimming or walking through water.

This is where sandals are notoriously bad. They almost act like flippers on your feet when in the water, and can easily come off. Water shoes and neoprene boots are definitely the best choice here, but make sure they fit properly to your foot.

Drying Speed of the Kayaking Shoes

Different types of footwear will dry at different speeds. Drying speed is not the most important factor to consider when buying footwear, because at the end of the day, as a paddler, you just have to accept the fact that at times your footwear will be damp, nasty, and a little bit smelly. There are things you can do to limit the stink factor – but that is a blog post for another day!

My Top Choices for Kayak Boots and Kayaking Shoes

After many, many years of paddling, I have some consistent footwear favorites. I use three types of footwear for 99% of my paddling.

The NRS Boundry Kayak Boot

I have taken this boot on a number of big adventures, from a 21-day trip in cold conditions down the Grand Canyon to a 14-day canoe trip on the George River that basically dumps into the Arctic. This is my cold-weather, expedition boot. It is incredible for canoeing, sea kayaking, rafting, and really any type of paddlesport where you are dealing with cold water.

This boot is waterproof. It is not really a wet shoe. It does insulate when it is wet as it is neoprene, but it is also waterproof unless the water comes over the sides where your leg is. So unless you are walking in deepish water your feet will stay dry. For extra protection and warmth, you can add a neoprene sock inside of the boot.

But this boot is not for everything. It can be simply too warm for everyday use.

The NRS Kicker & The NRS Paddle Wetshoe

These are more typical kayaking boots. They do not keep your feet dry, your feet will be wet, but they insulate so will be wet and warm. These are my go-to for white water paddling, sea kayaking, and kayaking when the conditions are cooler.

The big difference between these two models is that one goes above the ankle and the other cuts below it. I will go with the NRS Kicker if I don’t need the extra ankle protection or warmth, and I’ll go with the NRS Paddle Wetshoe if I do. I’ve been using these boots for about a decade.

Astral Loyak

This is something I have really gotten into over the past five years. They are great all-purpose water shoes for warmer conditions.

Kayaking Shoes vs Kayak Boots

I have already mentioned this but will say it again, open toe sandals suck as water shoes. Running shoes, something many people who are new to kayaking use, are fine but do have real drawbacks. They are not designed for kayaking and will end up tweaking your ankles because the soles are just not flexible enough.

Last but definitely not least, flip-flops. I love flip-flops, but they suck for paddling. Do yourself a favor and leave the flip-flops in the car when you go paddling. They provide little to no support, have little traction on wet rocks, and have caused me many a twisted ankle when trying to walk in flip-flops on wet, rocky terrain. What’s more, if you go for a swim, you are going to lose your flip-flops.

So stick with footwear designed for kayaking and canoeing, and have a blast next time you are out on the water!

Footwear: NRS Boundry Boot, NRS Kicker, NRS Paddle Wetshoe, Astral Loyak
Shirt:  NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt

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So, how do you know whether you need a kayak skirt? How do you use a spray skirt? Are kayak skirts dangerous? We will answer all these questions and more!

Why Use a Spray Skirt?

There is no way to sugarcoat it, it is impossible to rock a spray skirt and not look like a dork. They really aren’t a fashion statement. And worse still, you are bound to get one of the world’s worst wedgies when you put a spray skirt on.

So why even bother with a spray skirt? Well, in many cases spray decks are an essential piece of gear. In fact, some people argue that it can be one of your most valuable pieces of safety gear. This is mostly true for paddlers going out in the roughest conditions, so not something we will get into here.

A spray deck is useful because it keeps the water out of your kayak. It stops big waves from dumping on you, lets you avoid water dripping into your lap from paddling, and it stops water from getting into your kayak if you capsize. All of this works to help keep you warm in cold conditions.

Do You Need to Use a Spray Skirt?

Spray skirts are designed for sit-in kayaks, not sit-on-top kayaks. And not just any sit-in kayak either, as some sit-in kayaks don’t have cockpit combing. Cockpit combing, the lip on the cockpit rim that goes around the boat, and is what the spray skirt latches on to. So, if your sit-in kayak does not have this, you cannot use a kayak skirt. If your kayak does have this lip you can, but it doesn't mean you necessary need to, use a spray deck.

Whether or not you should use a spray skirt comes down to the type of paddling you are doing and the conditions you are doing it in. It is pretty much essential to use a spray deck when using a sit-in kayak in rough water. Or, if you are in calm water that can quickly become rough. That is because the whole idea of using a spray deck is to stop your boat from swamping and to give you the option to roll if you capsize.

This means you need to use a spray deck when kayaking in whitewater (class 2 and up). It also applies to paddling in open, and exposed, bodies of water where waves can quickly become a real issue.

However, in calm, protected water, it is not essential to use a spray deck. That is why most recreational kayaks, designed primarily to kayak in mellow conditions, don't even take a spray skirt because you don’t really need one. The only reason you’d use one is for a bit of extra warmth or to keep the drips from your paddle off your body!

How to Choose the Right Spray Deck

There is a large range of different types of spray decks. So, how do you know which kayak skirt is right for you?

Well, first of all, what makes up a spray deck? A spray deck has four key parts:

• The tunnel – this is the part that goes around your waist.
• The deck – this is the part that covers the cockpit of the kayak.
• The rand – this is the stretchy part that goes over the cockpit rim to hold the skirt into place.
• The grab loop – this is how you get the spray deck off once you are in the kayak.

Sizing

There is no such thing as one size fits all with spray skirts. If you have multiple kayaks, there is a very good chance you will need to have multiple skirts. There are two parts of the skirt that need to be sized: the tunnel and the deck.

The deck size depends on your kayak. The best thing to do is to go to the website of the kayak skirt manufacturer where you will find charts that list the size of deck you need for the type of kayak you have. If your kayak isn’t listed you will need to measure the length and width of your cockpit and compare it to the measurements in the charts to discover which size spray skirt you need.

Sizing the tunnel, is much simpler. It’s like a pair of pants – you can get a small, medium, large, etc, and you just get the same size as you would a pair of pants.

The Different Styles of Skirt

Nylon Skirt

These are the most basic, and therefore least expensive, types of spray skirts available. They have all the main features of a spray skirt, but the rand is made with an adjustable bungee which means that the seal it creates on the cockpit won't be very good. The thin nylon, which is not stretchy, means water will pool on the deck and it might cave in and get you wet.

These skirts are created mostly as splash decks, to stop the splashes getting you wet.

Neoprene Skirt

The opposite of the nylon skirt (in both function and cost) is the full neoprene spray skirt. The tunnel is stretchy and the whole thing is designed to be form-fitting so water doesn’t easily get down into the boat at your waist.

The deck itself is also stretchy, so once it’s ‘sealed' on, it blocks the water from getting through. Sealing a neoprene kayak skirt feels a little bit like sealing up a Tupperware. It snaps on and it is very tight. The water does not get a chance to pool on top of it as it just runs off to the side.

The rand on a high-performance neoprene skirt is much tighter. This means that it might take a real effort to snap it on, but once it is on, it will hold tight. Make sure you have to remember to leave the grab loop out once you’ve put it on so that you can actually get the deck off when you need to!

I use the NRS Drylander for all my high-performance kayaking whether it's white water or sea kayaking.

Neoprene Decks with Rubber Rands

Some neoprene spray decks have a thick and stiff rubber rand rather than a bungee rand. They can be even harder to put on the kayak but they provide a really solid seal around the cockpit.

This is the kind of skirt to use when you really, REALLY don’t want the skirt to come off at an inopportune time. That said, it can be difficult to take these skirts off even when you want to! Spray skirts with rubber rands are designed to be used by high-end paddlers using it in high-level white water.

Hybrid Spray Deck

If you are not looking to paddle in very high-level white water, you might want to look for a paddle skirt that is somewhere in the middle. That would be a hybrid spray skirt. These are more affordable than a full neoprene skirt.

There are a few different types of hybrid skirts. For instance, you can get skirts with a nylon tunnel and a neoprene deck. That means you get the benefit of a neoprene deck so the water will run off and not pool. You get a flexible, but not overly flexible rand, so it is relatively easy to get on and off, but it will not spontaneously explode on you if you flip, letting you roll the kayak.

The difference here is the nylon tunnel. It is much cooler to wear a nylon tunnel compared to a neoprene tunnel. The neoprene can be a lot more like wearing a wetsuit and provide a lot of warmth. The nylon tunnel will be much cooler. It is much more a sea kayaker's skirt, or maybe even a recreational kayaker. Someone who wants to stay in the kayak, but wants it to be cooler.

Enhanced Nylon Skirt

The enhanced nylon skirt has a full nylon tunnel and a full nylon deck. What makes this different from a basic nylon deck is that it has a frame built in. There is a stiff bar in the front that is designed to prevent water from pooling on your deck or to stop crashing waves from popping your skirt out. It’s still an entry-level skirt but will stay on a lot better than the basic nylon skirt.

Tips for Using a Spray Deck

There are a few things you should know when using a spray deck.

1. Do not put it on over your head like a shirt. Instead, step into it, pull it up, and accept the fact that you are going to get a wedgie!
2. Put your spray skirt on before you put your life jacket on. That way when you cinch your life jacket down it will hold your skirt into place.
3. If you are paddling in rough conditions, or will be rolling, I would recommend wearing a short sleeve paddling top. That will stop a lot of water from going down into your skirt.
4. If you are paddling in colder conditions in rougher water, wear a paddling to with a double tunnel. That way you can wear your skirt over the inside tunnel and the outside tunnel will go over your skirt. This will stop any water that does manage to come up the jacket from going inside the underlayers in your jacket. It will just come back out!
5. Keep the grab loop out and accessible! Going to get out of the kayak and realizing you're stuck because your grab loop is hidden under the cockpit rim just plain sucks. Make sure it is always easy to reach before you set off!

There are a lot of things spray decks are good as discussed above, but style is not one of them. So, if you have any tips on how to look less dorky in a spray skirt then please let me know!

Kayak: Pakayak Bluefin 142 portable sea kayak, Pyranha Ripper 2
Paddles:  Gearlab Outdoors IPIK, Aqua Bound Shred
Skirts: NRS Drylander Spray Skirt, NRS Nylon Skirt, Seals Extreme Neoprene skirt, Seals Sneak Zippered skirt
PFD:  NRS Zen PFD
Paddling Top:  NRS Silkweight Short sleeved shirt, NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Spray Skirts for Kayaking appeared first on Hazeadventure.

How to Tie a Double Uni Knot

In the first example, I’ll demonstrate how to tie the Double Uni Knot using cordage so you can see what I’m doing more easily. This will show how well the knot works when connecting lines of two different types and diameters.

After this, I’ll do another demo with braided and fluorocarbon lines.

Double Uni Knot Step-by-Step Demonstration with Cordage

Here I have a small diameter piece of yellow rope and a section of red cordage with a larger diameter.

Step 1

Start by making sure that your two lines are parallel and opposing one another.

Step 2

Now take the line with the smallest diameter and create a loop. Make sure the loop is big enough for the next step.

Step 3

Here I’m wrapping the tag end around the loop and itself five to seven times.

Step 4

Once I have those five to seven wraps, I'll take that tag end and cinch it down. You may have to help it along as you pull.

At this stage, the knot will actually slip on the other line. So now you need to tie the same knot on the opposite side so they'll slip tight toward each other.

Step 5

Now I'm going to do the same thing with the other line by first creating a loop.

Step 6

Here I'm wrapping the line through the loop and around itself five or seven times.

Step 7

Then I'll pull that knot nice and tight.

Step 8

Finally, I'll drop the tag ends and pull the lines toward one another until the two knots are touching. Now I just need to trim the tag ends.

When it’s done you basically have two opposing Uni Knots. You can really see the difference in the diameters of the two lines.

Double Uni Knot Recap

The Uni-to-Uni, or Double Uni, Knot is my go-to knot for tying braided line to leader material. Actually, it works in nearly any situation where you have two lines of different diameters made from different materials.

I love the Double Uni because it’s strong and easy to tie. Give it a try next time you need to connect two different types and diameters of lines. I think you’ll agree.

I did an article on the Non-Slip Loop Knot for Fishing. Check it out as well.

Braid: Seaguar Smackdown Flash Green
Leader: Seaguar Gold Label Fluorocarbon Leader
Clothing: NRS Silkweight T-shirt

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How Do We Measure Wind?

To start off, it is useful to know how we measure wind speed. Well, wind speed is measured in knots, miles (mph), or kilometers per hour (kmh). One knot is equivalent to 1.15 mph or 1.85 kmh. In the USA it is most common to use miles per hour.

How Does Wind Affect the Water?

As a general rule, any wind above 15-20 mph is too strong to kayak in. This wind strength makes the water too choppy and is too strong for you really to make any headway. In fact, you will most likely just get beaten up by the wind! Obviously, this varies a bit depending on your skill level or the bodies of water you will be paddling on.

In windy conditions, larger bodies of water are harder to kayak on as they will start to get waves. The size of the waves is impacted by the fetch. This is the length of water that is impacted by the wave before it reaches you. The more water that the wind has to travel over before it reaches you, the bigger the wave.

Protected and sheltered bodies of water, for example, small rivers between mountains, are impacted less by the wind. They will be unlikely to have waves and will be easier to kayak on when it is windy.

How Does Your Kayak Travel Through the Water?

To really understand how wind impacts your ability to kayak you should know how kayaks travel through water.

Most kayaks are designed with a bow keel, and this cuts through the water. As the kayak travels through the water, water hits the bow of the kayak. This effectively holds the bow in place due to the pressure. This pressure is maintained all the way through to the center point of the boat, which is the widest part. Beyond that point, towards the stern of the kayak, there is less water pressure. Therefore the stern can move more freely. This is why steering usually occurs in the stern.

What Happens When a Side/Beam Wind Hits Your Kayak?

As we just established, the stern of the kayak moves more freely in the water. Therefore when a side wind hits the kayak, it is the stern that will be pushed further than the bow. This will cause the kayak to turn into the wind, something we call ‘weather cocking’.

How Can You Stop Weather Cocking?

The extent to which your boat weather cocks will depend on the strength of the wind. In strong winds, where the stern is pushed aggressively you will need something to keep the stern in place.

And that is where rudders and skegs come in handy. The main purpose of a rudder or skeg is to drop down into the water and keep the stern from being pushed around. When dealing with wind they will help you keep your course. Without these, you will need to sweep harder on one side to keep correcting your boat from weather cocking. This quickly gets exhausting!

I wrote a full article on skegs and rudders. Check out my Kayak Rudder or Kayak Skeg article!

The other way you can prevent weather cocking is by tilting your kayak. This only works for rec/touring kayaks, sea kayaks, or any kayak that is slightly less wide. When you tilt your kayak, whether there is wind or not, it will turn away from the side you are tilting towards. So, in a beam wind, you can counter the effects of weather cocking by tilting into the wind. This is ideal for short periods of side wind. On a longer journey, however, this will quickly become too tiring to maintain. So for longer trips in a beam wind rudders and skegs are the best option.

What Happens in a Head Wind?

Headwinds suck when kayaking! But to go a little deeper, an average paddler, paddling at a sustained rate, will travel between 2-4 miles per hour. A strong enough headwind can provide enough resistance against a kayaker to significantly slow or stop them. For example, a headwind of between 15-20 mph can provide about 3-4 mph wind resistance on the kayaker. This will effectively stop them from moving forwards. At this point, it is hardly worth going to the effort of going kayaking.  

In slightly lower winds you might significantly be slowed down, but putting in the extra effort can keep you traveling forwards at a worthwhile speed. So then taking your kayak out is worth the effort.

How can you Deal With a Headwind?

Before kayaking in a strong headwind you do need to think about how worthwhile going out really is. If the wind is so strong that you won’t be able to move forwards against it, there is little point. By knowing the wind speed and your average kayaking speed you can work out how realistic it is for you to go kayaking. Sometimes you might be forced to put your gear away, find another place or try again tomorrow!

Another thing to think about when kayaking with a strong headwind is what your fastest route might be. Sometimes it may be faster to kayak further, but end up finding a more sheltered route, instead of grinding it out against the wind.

A good way to learn in-depth about strong wind is to take a sea kayaking course. The wind has a very strong effect on the sea. Learning how best to deal with that will really strengthen your kayaking skills.

What Happens to Your Kayak in a Tailwind?

Tailwinds tend to be friendly winds for kayakers. These will give you a boost instead of brakes!

Depending on the body of water you are in, tailwinds can be accompanied by waves. These waves can be surfed and will give you a fun, speedy boost. So you really can travel at some quite amazing speeds.

However, as the waves come from behind, you cannot see them. When your body gets surprised by the movements you can start to feel sea sickness. Whilst this doesn’t happen all too often, it can happen to anyone. The best course of action, if it does, is to turn into the wind. That way you can watch the waves coming to calm yourself down.

Things to Note When Kayaking in Windy Conditions

Head, side, and tailwinds are the main winds that you will face when kayaking. But there are a few other things to note about kayaking in windy conditions.

Areas Often Have Common Wind Themes

Different areas that you kayak tend to have common or recurring wind themes. For example, in Hood River Oregan where we are located, the winds are very predictable and rush from West to East up the Colombia River Gorge. That means you know what to expect and have to plan around that. Things like seasons and the time of the day also impact the wind you can expect.

It is always really important to know the wind themes of the place you are choosing to paddle. That way you can plan around them. On top of that, you should aim to discover the forecast of the day. To do that there are some great tools you can use such as the Windy app. This shows you the wind forecast and the current wind conditions for any location in the world.

Capsizing in the Wind

When capsizing in the wind your boat and paddles will be pushed down the river much faster than you. That is because you will be below the surface of the water but your kayak and paddle won't be. They will be on the faster moving, top layer of water and therefore blown much quicker down the river.

This is important to know because it means that if you do capsize in the wind you have to grab onto your boat and paddle. Otherwise, before you know it they are gone and there is no way you are going to catch them!

This is another good reason why, in windy conditions, it is essential that you are paddling with other people. And people whom you can count on. You will be each other's lifeline.

Bring a Communication Device

Wind can be the biggest hindrance in your kayaking plans. It might stop you from getting to your next location, or hinder you from going back to your vehicles. That means it is essential that you bring some sort of reliable communication device with you, especially when kayaking in windy conditions.

You also need to leave a float plan with somebody who is not joining your trip. That way they know where you are going, what the plan is, and where to look for you if you don’t show up.

Get Confident by Following a Sea Kayaking Course

Paddling in the wind really is a challenging thing to do. The windier it gets and the more exposed the water you are paddling in, the more difficulties the wind brings. So if you really want to paddle in very exposed locations or in strong winds you will really benefit from a sea kayaking course. Not just to learn how to deal with strong winds, but also to learn self-rescue skills, and to deal with accidents, capsizes, etc. Gaining that knowledge and expertise can bring you a high level of confidence when kayaking in windy conditions.

PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Zen PFD, NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Kayaks: Trak Kayaks, Liquid Logic Saluda
Paddle:  Aqua-Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece
Shirts and Tops:  NRS Silkweight Short sleeved shirt, NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

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