My Hammock Experience

A couple of years ago, I went on a multi-day river trip who used hammocks, and who couldn't believe I hadn't tried one. The following year, I did another river trip with a different friend who used a hammock, and sung their praise. Although I was skeptical, especially since decades of kayaking had taken their toll on my lower back, I headed out on a short kayak camping trip with a hammock in my boat instead of a tent, and with an acceptance of the fact that I was probably going to have a miserable night's sleep. Much to my surprise, I had one of the better night’s sleep that I’ve ever had camping, and learned some valuable lessons about hammocks (and tents) in the process. Here's what I can share with you:

The Benefits of a Tent

There are a number of benefits to tent camping. Some of the most notable benefits are that they come in wide variety of sizes to accommodate solo campers, or entire families/groups, and they offer more versatile space to stretch out and store gear. This roominess is also a real benefit if you're stuck at camp, and dealing with rain or bugs. The tent becomes a refuge—a place where you and others can relax comfortably – maybe even play a game of cards.

Tents are also versatile. You can pitch them pretty much anywhere as long as the ground is reasonably flat. This makes them a solid choice for all kinds of terrain, from mountain tops to beaches, and river banks.

The Benefits of a Hammock

Before doing a real hammock camping trip, I would have struggled to identify any significant benefits of the hammock. But I quickly learned that there were many. Being elevated off the ground has a number of benefits. For one, you don't need to worry about waking up in a pool of water, as you do with a tent. They’re also incredibly easy to get in and out of. This means no more crawling around on your hands and knees. You simply sit down into the hammock, and when it's time to get out, you swing your legs out and stand up. Hammocks are also more convenient when kayak camping, because the hammock packs into a number of very small bags, which fit inside a kayak very well.

When it comes to sleep quality, I was pleasantly surprised. I have some lower back issues, and I wasn’t sure how a hammock would feel over the course of a full night out. It turns out that they can be very comfortable! Fortunately, I did some research before my first night out in a hammock, and learned that using a sleeping pad and/or underquilt goes a long way to keeping you warm on cooler nights, as it provides insulation underneath your body, where your sleeping bag doesn't help.

Hammock vs Tent: A Quick Breakdown

• Comfort: Both can be comfortable if set up correctly. With a tent, you’ll want to find the flattest possible ground, making sure your head is higher than your feet if a perfectly flat surface isn't available. With a hammock, the key is tension—make sure it’s not too loose, and use a sleeping pad in the hammock for comfort and insulation. If it's a particularly cold trip, consider an underquilt.
• Sleep Quality: When set up properly, both a tent and hammock can provide a great nights sleep, if you have the appropriate accessories. For a tent, this means not skimping on the sleeping pad you use. I highly recommend a sleeping pad that inflates to 3-4″, and a camp pillow, if getting a good night sleep is a priority for you. For a hammock, this means using a sleeping pad or underquilt to insulate you from below, and having an integrated bug net if needed. This is why I was using the ENO JungleNest Hammock.
• Setup: Tents require flat ground, while hammocks need two trees spaced just right. Both are easy enough to set up once you get the hang of it, but if it’s raining, setting up a tarp first can make the process a lot easier for both options.
• Weather and Bugs: A tent offers more space to escape bugs and bad weather. But with the right bug net and tarp setup, a hammock can be just as effective, though less comfortable for lounging in during long rainy spells.

When to Choose a Hammock vs Tent

For me, the decision now comes down to the trip itself. If I know the area well and am confident that there will be plenty of trees to hang a hammock, I’ll likely bring a hammock—it's cozy, it's easy to set up, and it's nice to avoid the hands-and-knees scramble of tent camping.

On the other hand, if I'm not confident that there will be appropriate trees for hanging the hammock, or if I’m heading into a bug-heavy area where the weather could trap me in camp, I will bring a tent so that I have more space and protection to hang out.

Whichever you choose, it’s all about enjoying the great outdoors and making the most of your camping experience. That being said, trying new things adds a layer of adventure to your trips, and so if you haven't already done so, give hammock camping a shot—you might just discover your new favorite way to sleep under the stars.

Stay tuned for more gear reviews, tips, and Backcountry adventures!

The post Hammock vs Tent: Which Is Right for Your Adventure? appeared first on Hazeadventure.

To illustrate how easy it is to repair your inflatable kayak, I drilled a hole in my Sea Eagle 385. So let’s fix it. Many thanks to Sea Eagle for their support over the years… man do I feel bad about drilling a hole in their kayak! You'll see that the provide all you need to quickly get back on the water! I have a whole bunch of posts, stories and reviews of Sea Eagle products. Check them out here: Sea Eagle Articles

1. Find the Puncture

When you have a small puncture in your inflatable kayak and can't find it, there is a simple solution. Spread soapy water over the surface of the kayak and the soap on top of the leak will start bubbling. It very quickly becomes clear exactly where the leak is!

2. Dry and Mark the Hole

Once you’ve found the location of the hole, you will need to clean it. Ideally, you need to remove anything oily from the surface. You can do this using toluene or paint thinner. Then, dry the kayak completely. 

Make sure to mark the hole on the kayak so you don’t lose track of the leak. It can be easy to lose track of the leak when the kayak is deflated. 

3. Find a Patch

Once you know where the leak is and have dried it off, you need a patch. Most inflatable kayaks come with a patch repair kit so you can patch up your inflatable kayak if it happens to puncture. 

The Sea Eagle 385 repair kit includes glue and several different patches depending on which part of the kayak needs patching. Some inflatable kayaks come with one generic patch to use anywhere on the kayak.

You may also receive tear aids, which are very flexible second-skin-type patches. You can apply these directly to the leak which in 99% of cases it will stop the leak immediately. Tear aid is a great temporary solution for when you are on the water. However, this is not a long-term fix, so you still need to patch the kayak for a more long-term solution. 

4. Prepare the Patch

The first thing to do to prepare the patch is to cut it to the correct size for the hole. The patch does not need to be huge. All you need is at least half an inch of fabric from the edge of the hole on all sides. It is best to create a circular shape patch. Patches with hard, squared corners are more likely to catch on things and will ultimately lift-off.  

Cut the patch with good, sharp kitchen scissors. If you do not have these, a sharp knife works as well. 

5. Deflate the Kayak

You will need to deflate the kayak to glue the patch. When the kayak is inflated, the material is stretched. You do not want to glue an unstretched patch onto a stretched kayak because this will strain the patch and the glue. When the kayak is deflated, neither material will be stretched. 

6. Glue the Patch

After double-checking that the area is clean and dry, it's time to start gluing. You should apply glue to both the patch and the kayak in two layers. If you want to be very precise, you can trace the patch onto the kayak so you know exactly where to spread the glue. 

To break the gluing process down, apply the first layer of the glue to the kayak and the patch and then let it dry. Once this layer is dry, apply a thin second layer to the kayak and the patch and let that almost completely dry. Before it fully dries, place the patch and gently work it on. Then leave it to cure for a short while. 

7. Re-inflate the Kayak 

Once the patch is dried and cured, you can re-inflate your kayak and test to make sure that it has fully covered the air leak. I prefer to inflate my inflatable kayaks using a battery-powered pump (mine goes up to 15 psi) so that I can use minimal effort! 

It is a good sign if you cannot hear any air leaks when the kayak is fully inflated. But to double-check that there is no leak, you can do the bubble test again. If you don’t see any bubbles, your kayak is good to go! 

It Is That Easy

Getting a small hole in an inflatable kayak is not a deal breaker. It is not the end of your kayak and you can easily patch it. That being said, if there is a leak on a seam, it is a much more difficult process. Seam issues can be the end of your boat. But if you get a puncture anywhere else on your kayak, you can very easily repair it. 

Kayak: Sea Eagle 385 FT
Clothing:  NRS Short Sleeved Guide Shirt

The post Repairing Inflatable Boats appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Why is Clothing Choice a Safety Issue?

Well, very simply, because of hypothermia and hyperthermia. Hypothermia is when your body temperature drops too much because of the cold and hyperthermia is when it rises too much from the heat. You need to protect yourself from both of these conditions.

And there are three factors that really dictate how at-risk you are. These are:

The water temperature

This has the biggest impact on your safety on the water. In particular, you need to worry about hypothermia. If the water is cold and you end up submerged in it, you can freeze. Your body temperature can drop too much and it can be life-threatening.

Air temperature

Air temperature can go either way; it can cause both hypo and hyperthermia.

The type of paddling you are doing

This can result in both. In rough, but very warm conditions where you are required to be very active, your body temperature can rise too much. But more so hypothermia is a concern when kayaking in cold air and being doused in water.

Warm Water Kayaking Gear

When kayaking in hot weather and conditions the biggest concern for most people is getting sunburnt or suffering from over heating. But hyperthermia is something that does need to be on your radar. The first time I saw how debilitating hyperthermia was has stuck with me ever since. It really is terrible.

Fortunately, it is very easy to avoid hyperthermia when kayaking because you are on the water. By splashing yourself or taking a swim, drinking water, and protecting yourself from the sun you can keep hyperthermia at bay.

A couple of key pieces of gear that I wear when I am in really hot conditions include the following:

A hat is important for hot days

You need to protect yourself from the sun. In Dominica this winter, when kayak surfing, I got reminded of this. I was slammed by a wave, my hat went flying and I didn’t see it again. After only 15 minutes in the hot Caribbean sun, I realise that not having a hat wasn’t just an inconvenience, it was a real safety issue. So we had to cut our day’s plans short. Hats can really be a key piece of safety gear.

NRS Silk Weight Shirt

I often wear this silk-weight top. It is a really light top, it protects you from the sun and has a little bit of moisture wicking. Therefore it provides a cooling effect on the body when paddling.

This top is very similar to a loose-fitting rashguard, which can be another great thing to wear in the heat if you prefer having more form-fitting clothing. Guide shirts can also work well in the heat.

Surf shorts

This is self-explanatory, these are lightweight and great for swimming. Important warm water kayaking gear, because you can cool off with a swim!

A simple water shoe

A simple water shoe provides protection for my feet, fits in the kayak very well and drains water, and dries quickly. It also isn’t too hot.

Cold Water Kayaking Gear

This is a bit of a different story. You have to take more care because if you are on the water and get cold, you can’t just splash yourself with water or take a swim to warm up.

Hypothermia can very quickly escalate. The biggest danger is finding yourself swimming. When you are submerged in water, it will suck the heat from your body. The colder the water is, the quicker it will suck the heat from your body. If you are in the water under 40°F (10°C) hypothermia can literally set in in a couple of minutes or less if you are not protected.

So what you wear really depends, first and foremost, on the temperature of the water. But also, if you do end up going for a swim, how long will you be submerged in the water? If you are paddling close to a shoreline where it is easy to get out of the water and get back to your vehicle very quickly, it is a very different situation to if you are paddling offshore, with a long swim back.

Similarly, your skill level and expertise, and the skill level of your group, all make a difference. Are you confident that you can get back into your boat easily if you swim?

There are lots of factors that dictate how protected you need to be, but it really only changes your protection a little bit. Ultimately, when paddling in cold water you need to dress in a way that means you can comfortably survive being immersed in the water for an extended period of time. That means erring on dressing on the warmer side of things.

There are two real things to consider when dressing for cold conditions:

The Outer Shell

This is going to cut the splashing and wind. Or it will provide a completely dry interior. That is the big difference between splash wear and dry wear.

Dry suits, or dry tops, are the most protective gear. Dry tops have latex gaskets around the neck and at the wrists. Whereas a dry suit is a full-body suit that you zip yourself into and are fully protected. You’ve got latex gaskets at the neck, wrists, and feet. You are going to stay bone dry.

If it isn’t that cold, you might go for a paddling top that doesn’t have gaskets around the neck and wrists, just neoprene. This isn’t going to be as waterproof. But for a full day of paddling it will be more comfortable and it is certainly less expensive.

For even warmer temperatures, you can use even more simple paddling tops or splash tops. Even a simple raincoat might do the job, depending on the conditions.

The Layers Underneath

What matters just as much as the shell you are wearing, is what you are wearing on the inside. This is where layers make a really big difference. Instead of wearing one big layer that cannot be adjusted, I would highly recommend wearing a variety of layers.

The Base Layer

I use a silk-weight top whether it is warm or cold, as a base layer. That is because it wicks moisture and sweat very well. But I also have a microfleece one suit that works amazingly under a dry suit. It is a bit more of an insulating layer but can be worn as a base layer, or over the top of another base layer.

There is no right or wrong number of layers to wear. The key thing is that you want your base layer to wick moisture away from your body. Even if you wear a dry suit you will still be sweating, so you want this moisture to be pulled away from the body to keep you warm.

The Second and Third Layers for Cold Water Kayaking Gear

The second layer has to be to provide more insulation and more warmth. You may need a third layer if it is too cold. I find two layers are typically enough for kayaking, keep you warm, and don’t reduce your mobility.

If you do not have a dry suit, which is very expensive, a wetsuit is another option. You can get wetsuits that are quite thick and will keep you warm in really cold water. They do it by insulating you when you are wet. The key is to get a fully form-fitting wetsuit so that there isn’t space between the material and your body.

I personally don’t like using thick wetsuit tops as much because they reduce your mobility up top. Down below, where you need less mobility, they make a lot more sense. By combining a dry top and wetsuit bottoms you can get cold water protection in a more affordable way.

Otherwise, on the bottom half, you can use the same idea as with the tops. You need a moisture-wicking base layer and then an insulating layer topped off with an outer shell.

What about the exposed parts of your body?

Foot Protection

Your best option for cold water kayaking gear is neoprene boots or booties because they insulate when wet.

I have been using the NRS Boundary boot for a couple of decades now in really cold conditions. This is fully waterproof as well as insulating. For the coldest trips, you can even wear a neoprene sock inside of these.

When things aren’t as cold, a simple neoprene bootie will do the trick. You can choose from high cut, low cut, and everything in between. They might not be the best-looking shoes, but they certainly do the job.

Hand Protection

There are a few options for hands. What I use the most are pogies. These wrap around your paddle, and then you put your hand inside. That means you can easily take your hand out. Pogies keep the wind and splash off, and are insulating, but do not keep your hand dry.

Although they aren’t nearly as warm as a glove or a mitt, I really like pogies because your hand stays on the paddle. You get to keep a lot more paddle dexterity and control – ideal for someone who loves paddling in rough waters like me.

If you don’t need that same level of control, you might want to get some handwear that provides an extra level of warmth. And that is where paddling gloves come in handy. Something like the NRS Hydroskin gloves provides a great layer of insulation when you are paddling. These are not thick so you still have a similar feel when you are paddling, but it is not the same as having your hand directly on the paddle though.

For a little more insulation, you can get thicker wetsuit gloves that provide more and more protection. Some of these have great design features like slits in the finger which allow you to pop your fingers out to maintain contact with the paddle at least with your fingers. It also allows you to do things like use your phone or fish.

Head Protection

We’ve all heard that you lose a lot of your heat through your head. And so it makes sense to wear something. For most people, a tuque (a beanie) is the best protection. If you want a bit more protection you can get a paddling top with a hood.

But if you are paddling in rough conditions and need something a little warmer, there is neoprene headwear that is form-fitting and tight to your head. It can even almost be like a balaclava. For white water paddlers, the helmet can also provide some warmth too.

As a final note

I’ve talked here about what to wear whilst out on the water. But very briefly, let's end with what not to wear. And that is cotton. Cotton does not insulate at all when it is wet. In fact, it tends to do the opposite and suck heat from your body. So if you are wearing paddling tops, do not wear cotton underneath.

In warm conditions, cotton might keep you cool, but when it is wet it tends to cling to you. So you might be cool, but you won’t be comfortable!

Watercraft: Sea Eagle 300,
Paddles:  Aqua Bound Manta Ray Hybrid,
PFD:   NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec), NRS Chinook (fishing), NRS Zen (Whitewater),
Clothing:  NRS Short Sleeved Guide Shirt, NRS Axiom Dry Suit, NRS Riptide Splash Jacket,
Helmet: WRSI Current Helmet,
Footwear: NRS Kicker Remix Shoe, NRS Boundary Boot,
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Warm and Cold Water Kayaking Gear appeared first on Hazeadventure.

So, how do you know whether you need a kayak skirt? How do you use a spray skirt? Are kayak skirts dangerous? We will answer all these questions and more!

Why Use a Spray Skirt?

There is no way to sugarcoat it, it is impossible to rock a spray skirt and not look like a dork. They really aren’t a fashion statement. And worse still, you are bound to get one of the world’s worst wedgies when you put a spray skirt on.

So why even bother with a spray skirt? Well, in many cases spray decks are an essential piece of gear. In fact, some people argue that it can be one of your most valuable pieces of safety gear. This is mostly true for paddlers going out in the roughest conditions, so not something we will get into here.

A spray deck is useful because it keeps the water out of your kayak. It stops big waves from dumping on you, lets you avoid water dripping into your lap from paddling, and it stops water from getting into your kayak if you capsize. All of this works to help keep you warm in cold conditions.

Do You Need to Use a Spray Skirt?

Spray skirts are designed for sit-in kayaks, not sit-on-top kayaks. And not just any sit-in kayak either, as some sit-in kayaks don’t have cockpit combing. Cockpit combing, the lip on the cockpit rim that goes around the boat, and is what the spray skirt latches on to. So, if your sit-in kayak does not have this, you cannot use a kayak skirt. If your kayak does have this lip you can, but it doesn't mean you necessary need to, use a spray deck.

Whether or not you should use a spray skirt comes down to the type of paddling you are doing and the conditions you are doing it in. It is pretty much essential to use a spray deck when using a sit-in kayak in rough water. Or, if you are in calm water that can quickly become rough. That is because the whole idea of using a spray deck is to stop your boat from swamping and to give you the option to roll if you capsize.

This means you need to use a spray deck when kayaking in whitewater (class 2 and up). It also applies to paddling in open, and exposed, bodies of water where waves can quickly become a real issue.

However, in calm, protected water, it is not essential to use a spray deck. That is why most recreational kayaks, designed primarily to kayak in mellow conditions, don't even take a spray skirt because you don’t really need one. The only reason you’d use one is for a bit of extra warmth or to keep the drips from your paddle off your body!

How to Choose the Right Spray Deck

There is a large range of different types of spray decks. So, how do you know which kayak skirt is right for you?

Well, first of all, what makes up a spray deck? A spray deck has four key parts:

• The tunnel – this is the part that goes around your waist.
• The deck – this is the part that covers the cockpit of the kayak.
• The rand – this is the stretchy part that goes over the cockpit rim to hold the skirt into place.
• The grab loop – this is how you get the spray deck off once you are in the kayak.

Sizing

There is no such thing as one size fits all with spray skirts. If you have multiple kayaks, there is a very good chance you will need to have multiple skirts. There are two parts of the skirt that need to be sized: the tunnel and the deck.

The deck size depends on your kayak. The best thing to do is to go to the website of the kayak skirt manufacturer where you will find charts that list the size of deck you need for the type of kayak you have. If your kayak isn’t listed you will need to measure the length and width of your cockpit and compare it to the measurements in the charts to discover which size spray skirt you need.

Sizing the tunnel, is much simpler. It’s like a pair of pants – you can get a small, medium, large, etc, and you just get the same size as you would a pair of pants.

The Different Styles of Skirt

Nylon Skirt

These are the most basic, and therefore least expensive, types of spray skirts available. They have all the main features of a spray skirt, but the rand is made with an adjustable bungee which means that the seal it creates on the cockpit won't be very good. The thin nylon, which is not stretchy, means water will pool on the deck and it might cave in and get you wet.

These skirts are created mostly as splash decks, to stop the splashes getting you wet.

Neoprene Skirt

The opposite of the nylon skirt (in both function and cost) is the full neoprene spray skirt. The tunnel is stretchy and the whole thing is designed to be form-fitting so water doesn’t easily get down into the boat at your waist.

The deck itself is also stretchy, so once it’s ‘sealed' on, it blocks the water from getting through. Sealing a neoprene kayak skirt feels a little bit like sealing up a Tupperware. It snaps on and it is very tight. The water does not get a chance to pool on top of it as it just runs off to the side.

The rand on a high-performance neoprene skirt is much tighter. This means that it might take a real effort to snap it on, but once it is on, it will hold tight. Make sure you have to remember to leave the grab loop out once you’ve put it on so that you can actually get the deck off when you need to!

I use the NRS Drylander for all my high-performance kayaking whether it's white water or sea kayaking.

Neoprene Decks with Rubber Rands

Some neoprene spray decks have a thick and stiff rubber rand rather than a bungee rand. They can be even harder to put on the kayak but they provide a really solid seal around the cockpit.

This is the kind of skirt to use when you really, REALLY don’t want the skirt to come off at an inopportune time. That said, it can be difficult to take these skirts off even when you want to! Spray skirts with rubber rands are designed to be used by high-end paddlers using it in high-level white water.

Hybrid Spray Deck

If you are not looking to paddle in very high-level white water, you might want to look for a paddle skirt that is somewhere in the middle. That would be a hybrid spray skirt. These are more affordable than a full neoprene skirt.

There are a few different types of hybrid skirts. For instance, you can get skirts with a nylon tunnel and a neoprene deck. That means you get the benefit of a neoprene deck so the water will run off and not pool. You get a flexible, but not overly flexible rand, so it is relatively easy to get on and off, but it will not spontaneously explode on you if you flip, letting you roll the kayak.

The difference here is the nylon tunnel. It is much cooler to wear a nylon tunnel compared to a neoprene tunnel. The neoprene can be a lot more like wearing a wetsuit and provide a lot of warmth. The nylon tunnel will be much cooler. It is much more a sea kayaker's skirt, or maybe even a recreational kayaker. Someone who wants to stay in the kayak, but wants it to be cooler.

Enhanced Nylon Skirt

The enhanced nylon skirt has a full nylon tunnel and a full nylon deck. What makes this different from a basic nylon deck is that it has a frame built in. There is a stiff bar in the front that is designed to prevent water from pooling on your deck or to stop crashing waves from popping your skirt out. It’s still an entry-level skirt but will stay on a lot better than the basic nylon skirt.

Tips for Using a Spray Deck

There are a few things you should know when using a spray deck.

1. Do not put it on over your head like a shirt. Instead, step into it, pull it up, and accept the fact that you are going to get a wedgie!
2. Put your spray skirt on before you put your life jacket on. That way when you cinch your life jacket down it will hold your skirt into place.
3. If you are paddling in rough conditions, or will be rolling, I would recommend wearing a short sleeve paddling top. That will stop a lot of water from going down into your skirt.
4. If you are paddling in colder conditions in rougher water, wear a paddling to with a double tunnel. That way you can wear your skirt over the inside tunnel and the outside tunnel will go over your skirt. This will stop any water that does manage to come up the jacket from going inside the underlayers in your jacket. It will just come back out!
5. Keep the grab loop out and accessible! Going to get out of the kayak and realizing you're stuck because your grab loop is hidden under the cockpit rim just plain sucks. Make sure it is always easy to reach before you set off!

There are a lot of things spray decks are good as discussed above, but style is not one of them. So, if you have any tips on how to look less dorky in a spray skirt then please let me know!

Kayak: Pakayak Bluefin 142 portable sea kayak, Pyranha Ripper 2
Paddles:  Gearlab Outdoors IPIK, Aqua Bound Shred
Skirts: NRS Drylander Spray Skirt, NRS Nylon Skirt, Seals Extreme Neoprene skirt, Seals Sneak Zippered skirt
PFD:  NRS Zen PFD
Paddling Top:  NRS Silkweight Short sleeved shirt, NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Spray Skirts for Kayaking appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Paddling Top

There are a number of factors you need to consider when choosing what to wear out on the water. What you wear will affect both your comfort and, more importantly, your safety. Choosing the right paddling top is very important.

There are five main factors that will influence the type of gear you will need when kayaking or canoeing.

1. Water and air temperature in choosing the best paddling tops

Water and air temperature play the biggest role in deciding which paddling top to wear. This is because wearing the wrong clothing when dealing with cold water can make hypothermia a real threat.

The general rule is that you need to choose a paddling top that will allow you to be comfortable when paddling, but will also allow you to survive if you end up swimming. You need to be able to stay warm when in the water for an extended period of time.

For that reason, the trickiest conditions are when the air is warm but the water is cold. It may be tempting to wear something lighter, but it is essential that you dress appropriately to be able to deal with an unexpected swim in cold water.

2. The type of paddling you will be doing

This is the second most important factor in dictating the type of paddling top you wear. If you are going to be paddling in rough conditions, maybe white water kayaking or surf kayaking, you will get soaked with water. You will get colder much quicker in these conditions unless you are wearing the right paddling top.

3. Paddling Skill Level and Experience

This plays a much smaller role than the above factors. Whatever your skill level, you need to dress appropriately to be able to handle taking an unexpected swim. However, with skill, you might be able to get away with less protection simply because you are less likely to take a swim in certain conditions. Beginners will need much more protection as they will likely spend more time in the water and swimming.

That being said, some of the biggest problems arise when skilled kayakers perceive the risks of swimming to be very low. They will sometimes then choose to underdress in order to be more comfortable actively paddling. If they do end up taking an unexpected swim, hypothermia then becomes a real threat.

4. Your predisposition to getting cold

This factor is a little more obvious. If you are somebody who gets cold easily you will need to wear more than somebody who doesn’t!

5. Budget

Paddling tops come with a huge range of price tags. You can spend anything from about $100 (USD) all the way through to tops that cost $600 (USD). That means the budget will obviously play a role in the type of paddling top you can choose.

It is important to realize that budget is a limiting factor here. If you cannot afford a top that has a certain level of protection it means that you cannot safely paddle in certain conditions.

Paddling Tops for Cold Conditions

The Dry Top

When paddling in the coldest conditions, this is the best paddling top to wear. Next to dry suits they provide the ultimate protection.

Dry tops have latex rubber gaskets that go around your wrists and neck and create a waterproof seal. This stops any water from getting inside. Theoretically, you can stay 100% dry when wearing a dry top, however, depending on the conditions you are paddling in, you might still get a little damp.

Dry tops do come with a higher price tag. At the top end of the market, you can get dry tops like the paddling top I use, the NRS Rev Gore-Tex Pro dry top, for around $600 (USD). Thanks to the Gor-Tex fabric this is a higher-end paddling top. Gore-Tex is the ultimate durable, breathable, and waterproof fabric, but it does push the price of a dry top up.

You can get dry tops without Gore-Tex for significantly less. Dry tops with latex gaskets, that are still waterproof and breathable can cost around $300-350 (USD). This is still a lot of money, but in some paddling conditions, is necessary.

Wet Suits

You may wish, in cold conditions, to wear a wet suit. Unlike a dry top that is designed to stop any water from getting in, a wet suit is designed to keep you insulated when wet. The joy of wetsuit tops is that they are a lot less expensive than a dry top. The downside is that they only keep you insulated when wet, so, unless you have a really thick wetsuit, it will feel a little colder.

With a thicker wetsuit, you do encounter different issues, including mobility when paddling. This will cause you to lose performance in some cases. But the reality is that if you want to paddle in cold conditions but cannot afford a dry top, you don’t really have a choice. You will need to have a thick wetsuit that allows you to survive in cold water if you take an unexpected swim.

Semi-Dry Top

The semi-dry top is the next step down from a dry top. The difference between this and a dry top is that, instead of having latex gaskets, which can be uncomfortable and tight, a semi-dry top has neoprene gaskets around the neck and wrists. These will create a seal to keep you dry, but it will not work as well as the latex gaskets on a dry top – hence it is known as the semi-dry top.

The higher-end semi-dry tops might still have latex gaskets at the wrists, but keep the neoprene gasket around the neck for comfort. This is great for paddling in rough water or paddle surfing because it stops the rush of water from going up your sleeve and dripping down your body.

At the cheaper end of the spectrum some semi-dry tops, such as the NRS Riptide have velcro seals at the neck. This obviously means that they do not keep you as dry. But they will still do a good enough job for some conditions and are a lot more affordable.

You can purchase a semi-dry top with short sleeves, such as the kokatat knappster. This is not a primary paddling top, but it can be useful as extra gear for those who paddle in a variety of conditions.

While the seals may differ on different semi-dry tops, all semi-dry tops have a double tunnel. This means that they have a second layer underneath that is connected to the top layer. The idea behind this is that you can put your paddling spray skirt between the layers. This will stop any rush of water from going up your top and soaking your underlayers. The water will not be able to penetrate through the second layer keeping you dry and warm.

There any many different models of semi-dry tops available. The one you choose really comes down to a matter of budget and preference. The differences between spending $175 (USD) to $300 (USD) come from things like the type of gasket used, whether it has a hood and the material it is made from.

Splash Tops or Paddling Tops

This is again the next step down in terms of protection. These are the most basic paddling tops. They typically have velcro closures at the neck and the wrist and are designed to keep water from gushing in, but they will not keep you dry. That is why they are less expensive. They range from around $100 (USD) to about $200 (USD) at the high end.

Multifunctional Splash Wear

All of these above tops are designed for paddling. What that means, particularly with kayaking, is that they are made for sitting and will be fairly short. So none of this kit can really double as rain gear.

But there is splash wear that have multifunctional purposes. For example, the NRS Teeko jacket, which is a jacket I travel everywhere with. This is slightly longer but has velcro seals at the wrist and a hood. It is less useful for kayaking trips but can be very useful for canoeing trips or hiking trips. It is an all-purpose raincoat that doubles as a paddling top.

A multi-purpose top can be great for your budget as it can be used for more than just kayaking. But it does come with real limitations. For example, if there is no neck seal at all, and you take a swim, the water will just come gushing in. It provides very little in terms of protection.

Underneath Layers

Of course, the paddling top you choose to wear is only the outer shell. All of the tops mentioned so far will provide different levels of protection from the wind and water, but it is what you wear underneath them that will keep you warm.

So what do you wear underneath? Well, this will depend entirely on the temperature outside. But what I tend to wear is a thin moisture-wicking top against my skin because I will be sweating. On top of that, if it is colder, I will be wearing an insulating layer which might be as thick as a fleece layer if it is really cold. The great thing about layering is that you can always add or remove layers depending on how warm you get.

So How Do You Decide Which Cold Weather Paddling Top to Wear?

I'd argue against deciding which paddling top to wear based on budget, because the paddling top is a very important piece of safety gear. As a very general rule, if the water temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, your paddling top is functioning as a piece of safety gear. As you expose yourself to colder and colder paddling conditions, you need to make the step up to more protective paddling tops. Otherwise, you may be putting yourself into a life-threatening situation.

Paddling Tops for Hot Conditions

Gear for hot conditions is far less technical. But there are a couple of pieces of gear that are worth noting. The purpose of these paddling tops is to provide comfort, keep you cool, and protect your skin from the sun.

The NRS Silkweight Shirt

This shirt is kind of like a rashguard but is not tight-fitting. It is more like very a light t-shirt that not only keeps the sun off of you but is also moisture-wicking. Great for keeping cool.

The NRS Guide Shirt

I love paddling in my NRS Guide shirt. This shirt has stretch panels on the side and the underarms. That means that there are no restrictions whatsoever when paddling. It doesn’t feel like you are wearing a shirt at all.

Thin Wetsuit Top

You can purchase thin wetsuit tops with long or short sleeves. They hug the body tightly in order to insulate the body when wet. They are perfect when kayaking on rough water when the air and water temperature are warm. You know you will get wet and might want a layer of insulation.

Choose Your Paddling Top Wisely

There is no simple way to know which type of paddling top to wear, but this blog post should shed some light on the types of tops available. It is always important to remember that in many paddling conditions, the paddling top you choose to wear comes down to safety and not just comfort. The reality is that if you do not have the right paddling gear there are some conditions that you just cannot paddle in.

Lighter Tops:  NRS Silkweight Short sleeved shirt, NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt, NRS Guide Short Sleeve Shirt, NRS Hydroskin .5 Shirt
Paddling Jackets and Dry Tops: NRS Flux Drytop, NRS Riptide Splash Jacket, NRS Teeko Paddling Jacket, NRS Stratos Shorty Semi-Dry Paddling Top
Full Dry Suit: NRS Axiom Dry Suit
PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Zen PFD, NRS Chinook PFD (fishing), NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Kayaks: NRS Pike Inflatable kayak, Jackson Kayak Knarr, Pakayak and the P&H Leo
Paddles:  Gearlab Outdoors IPIK, Aqua Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece, Aqua Bound Whiskey Fiberglass Straight Shaft
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Best Paddling Tops for Kayaking and Canoeing appeared first on Hazeadventure.

In fact, wearing a life jacket when operating a kayak, a canoe, a stand-up paddleboard, or any other small personal watercraft, is required by law. Wearing a correctly fitted and comfortable life jacket is just a smart thing to do.

But how do you choose the right life jacket for you? Well, keep reading to find out exactly how to choose a life jacket for your next kayaking and canoeing adventure.

Which Types of Life Jacket Are Available?

There are a few different decisions you will need to make when choosing to buy a new life jacket.

Life jackets are split up into three different types, types 1, 2, and 3.

Type 1 and type 2 life jackets are designed to float an unconscious person, keeping their head above the water. They tend to do this by having big collars behind the head to float it up, as well as a lot of flotation in the front to bring the belly up.

Type 3 life jackets don’t keep your head above the water and are more like swimming aids. This means that they have more flexibility in where the flotation around the body goes. They are therefore much more comfortable life jackets for kayaking or canoeing.

It is important however to remember that, whilst more comfortable, type 3 life jackets will not do the same thing as a type 1 or 2 life jacket. If you are unconscious they might not keep your head above the water.

How to Choose a Life Jacket: Inflatable or Standard Life Jackets?

You can choose between two main kinds of life jackets: an inflatable life jacket or a standard life jacket.

Inflatable Life Jackets

Inflatable life jackets have a Co₂ cartridge inside the jacket that will automatically inflate when it touches the water. They function a little bit like the airbags inside a vehicle. You can also manually fill these life jackets up, or top them up, if necessary.

The big pro of inflatable PFDs is that they are small, light, and very low profile. They cover much less of your body so are a lot cooler in warmer environments. All of this means that they are very comfortable to wear.

However, to go back to the airbag analogy, kayaking with an inflatable life jacket is much like driving a vehicle without a seat belt and relying fully on the airbag. It does provide protection, but, particularly with the manual inflatable life jackets, you do need to be conscious enough to fill this up when needed.

It is also possible that automatically inflating life jackets inflate at the wrong time. And as these life jackets are not designed to be easy to swim or kayak in when inflated, they could inhibit movement and make certain situations more dangerous.

To top that off, inflatable life jackets need maintenance. The co₂ cartridge must be replaced every year.

Standard Life Jackets

Standard life jackets use foam rather than air to keep you floated. This means that they are much safer than inflatable life jackets as they are ready to go at any time. It’s like wearing a seat belt and using an airbag: double protection!

Standard life jackets can also have a variety of different, very useful features, such as pockets and different attachment points for things like radios. They are also low maintenance. As long as you don’t leave them wet in your bag, or let them sit out in the sun, they require very little maintenance and can last a long time.

For people in colder environments, standard life jackets can be an excellent extra layer of insulation. With all that foam wrapped around you, they can keep you warm. Obviously, in some environments, this might be considered a con, but you can choose life jackets with different ventilation and foam options, so you just need to choose a life jacket based on your needs.

There is really only one main con of using a standard life jacket, and that is comfort. But this is really only an issue if you are using a non-paddling specific PFD. If you choose the right paddling-specific PFD then there is no real reason why this shouldn’t be as comfortable as an inflatable life jacket.

Which One Should You Choose?

In general, standard life jackets are the preferred type of life jacket for kayakers and canoeists. This is particularly the case for kayakers who will be kayaking in rougher water, with more chance of capsizing and other accidents. Standard life jackets are just safer, and on top of that, they provide some very useful storage features. You can take a snack and sun cream on the go with you!

However, inflatable PFDs can be the ideal choice for some kayakers. For example, people living in hot climates might benefit from an inflatable life jacket as it really does keep you cooler. People who will be paddling mostly on very calm water in very stable boats, where the chance of capsizing is very, very low, such as kayak anglers, might also choose to use an inflatable life jacket.

How to Choose the Right Standard Life Jacket for You

When choosing a standard PFD there are two main things to look out for:

1. How Comfortable Is It?

Your life jacket must be comfortable. If it is not you will be more inclined to take it off and less likely to wear it. You also don’t want to get unnecessary chafing or have your movement impeded by your PFD.

2. How Does It Fit?

How do you know if it fits well? Like a properly fitted pair of running shoes, a life jacket should be snug but comfortable.

Life jackets are fitted using strap systems that let you tighten or loosen the life jacket to fit you properly. Paddling-specific life jackets tend to be fitted with shoulder straps to accommodate different lengths of bodies, and side straps to fit different body shapes.

Paddling-specific life jackets don’t tend to have crotch straps. These are necessary on a lot of standard life jackets to stop them from coming off over your head when you are in the water. Paddling-specific life jackets avoid needing these by using good quality side straps. This way the life jacket hugs your body firmly and can’t come over your head anyway.

What Other Features Should You Consider?

How They Zip Up

There are many different life jacket designs, some zip up the front, or the side, and some don’t have any zips at all. There is no right and wrong here, the design you choose is simply a matter of personal preference.

The Back of the Life Jacket

The back of a standard life jacket can really vary, and this affects the comfort of your paddling experience.

Some life jackets have a mostly mesh back. This is ideal for someone using a recreational kayak, with a high back on the seat. You don’t want a layer of foam at the lower back getting in between you and the comfy seat in your kayak.

A more standard PFD has quite a bit more flotation across the entirety of the back. That is great for kayaks where you have a lower back support.

A third option is a thin back life jacket. This is more multi-functional as it is not too bulky, and spreads the foam evenly across your back. A thin back PFD is comfortable in a kayak with a high back seat, but also in a kayak with low back support. This is the jack-of-all-trades life jacket – comfortable in any boat you use.

A Rescue Life Jacket

A more advanced type of life jacket is the rescue life jacket. This has a quick-release belt around the waist and an attachment that lets you tow. A rescue life jacket is ideal for guides who may need to tow somebody mid-trip. For example, this can be a very useful tool when you are whitewater kayaking. If someone has taken a swim the guide is able to tow the empty boat back to the shore.

The quick-release belt is essential here because you need to be able to release the thing you are towing at a moment's notice. If you are being dragged somewhere you don’t want to go by boat you are towing all you need to do is press the quick-release buckle and you have avoided a potentially dangerous situation.

Kid’s Life Jackets

There are three levels of kid's life jackets. These are designed for:

– A child less than 30lb

– A child between 30 – 50lb.

– A child between 50-90lb.

After this children will need to use adult life jackets, albeit, very small adult life jackets!

When shopping for children's clothes it is always tempting to purchase something slightly bigger so that they have room to grow. But when purchasing a child’s life jacket you don’t want to mess around with the fit. And this is for the simple reason that an incorrectly fitter life jacket won’t do its job.

Women’s Specific Life Jackets

Women’s specific life jackets are more than just different colors to men’s life jackets. They have a different cut, made to suit a woman’s body. This doesn’t just add to the comfort of the PFD, it also helps it stay in place and ultimately makes it safer.

A Final Note

That is everything you need to know about choosing the right life jacket. If there is one piece of kayaking gear that you really should choose carefully and invest in, it is your PFD. Choosing the right life jacket makes a huge difference to your paddling experience, and most importantly to your safety out on the water.

Happy paddling!

PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Zen PFD, NRS Chinook PFD (fishing), NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec), NRS Matik Inflatable Lifejacket, NRS Zoya Women's Lifejacket
Kayaks: Trak Kayaks, Perception Showdown 11.5
Paddles:  Gearlab Outdoors IPIK, Aqua Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece
Shirts and Tops:  NRS Silkweight Short sleeved shirt, NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts

The post How to Choose a Life Jacket for Kayaking and Canoeing appeared first on Hazeadventure.

There's no concrete answer to find here, just a list of pros and cons to sort through, while also incorporating your own personal preferences. But with that said, I think by breaking down the main distinctions, and sharing my own opinions, other paddlers can get a head start on the matter. 

For this gear comparison, I actually brought both types of paddles with me on a 4-day canoe trip through my favorite region: Killarney Provincial Park. For the first 2 days, I used the Bending Branches Catalyst (straight)  and the last 2 days I went with the Java (bent). 

Bent Shaft Canoe Paddle

The idea with a bent shaft canoe paddle is that it makes the forward stroke more efficient. If you've never used a paddle like this before, then your first instinct may be to scoop the water, but in actuality, the bend is meant to point away from you.

The reason for this is that the angle of the blade stays more vertical during the back half of the stroke, compared to the same motion with a straight shaft paddle. In the latter case, once the blade passes the knee, it starts to pull up (i.e. no longer just propelling the canoe forward). This, in turn, pulls your boat down; creating drag.

Bent shaft canoe paddles better?

In canoes and kayaks alike, bent shaft paddles lead to more powerful and efficient forward strokes, but this doesn't mean they are better across the board. Straight shaft paddles are an all-purpose tool.

They still effectively propel the boat forward, and for all other strokes, straight shaft paddles are more intuitive to use. Plus, it doesn't matter which side you catch the water with – it's the exact same. Whereas sometimes I'll catch paddlers getting a little twisted up with the orientation of a bent shaft. 

Straight shaft paddles are also the way to go in rougher conditions. While pounding through some whitewater, it's helpful to have a paddle that works the same from either side, since you'll be taking a lot of back strokes while also trying to charge ahead (as well as draw strokes, etc.). Conversely, if you expect long days of paddling across calm waters, that's where the argument in favor of a bent shaft really comes into play. 

After doing my extended side-by-side comparison, I realized that I prefer the straight shaft paddle (the Catalyst). Aside from it simply being more comfortable (for me anyway), I also appreciate having added dexterity.

Because of my background as a whitewater kayaker, I like to mix things up when I'm out there. I'm not solely concerned with finding the most-efficient path forward. I'm sure that over time I would become more intrigued with a bent shaft (the Java), but as it stands, I like a straight shaft canoe paddle better. 

Side note on length of canoe paddles

A straight shaft canoe paddle should be about 4-inches longer than a bent one. For example, I'm 6-foot-2 (and long in the arms), and I used a 58-inch straight paddle, but a 54-inch bent. 

Canoe and Canoe Paddle Rentals in Killarney Provincial Park

Killarney Outfitters has an abundance of canoes and canoe paddles on hand to rent (including the Swift Prospector that I used) and provide guided services to make the trip possible for paddlers of any skill level. For more information, contact Killarney Outfitters HERE.

That's my hot take on this canoeist's dilemma. I hope this helps steer you in the right direction. For more content on everything paddling-related, including my Paddle Tales episodes in Killarney (and beyond!), check out PaddleTV and subscribe to the Hazeadventure.com newsletter for regular updates. 

Canoe: Swift Prospector 17
Canoe paddles:   Bending Branches Catalyst (straight) & Bending Branches Java 11
PFD:  NRS Zen PFD
Paddling Top:  NRS Silkweight shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Lolo Pants

The post Canoe Paddle: Bent Shaft Canoe Paddle vs Straight Shaft appeared first on Hazeadventure.

So today I want to give you a sample meal plan for a 5-day canoe camping trip with multiple portages. My advice for planning meals on a canoe trip could be something that you can use as a baseline reference. Adjust it and personalize it to make your canoe trip a success. 

Packing food for an extended canoe camping trip

Before you get underway, there are a few environmental factors that will dictate how you should pack for a canoe camping trip. For example, does your route entail a lot of portages or is it mostly long paddles between campsites?

One of the benefits of a canoe trip over a kayak or a backpacking adventure is that you can chuck in a lot of bulky and bonus items. However, if you need to repeatedly lug all of that overland, then that prior advantage becomes more of a nuisance.

Multiple portages means lighter foods

So if your trip does involve multiple portages, I recommend sticking with lighter, more packable foods. If you're set up to predominantly paddle, then go nuts with those luxury foods and bonus treats. 

Weather is important for food planning

Another environmental factor to consider when canoe camping (as best as you can in advance) is the weather. Namely, how hot will it be? This will determine the shelf-life of different foods. If it's a scorching hot summer trip, then maybe scale back on the packaged meats. But if it's a cooler area or time of year, then you can get away with a lot more.

As a general rule, I like to pack more fresh foods for the first 2 days, and then I'll switch over to pre-packaged and dehydrated stuff, just to be on the safe side. 

Calories you burn on a multi-day canoe trip

And a final thing to consider is how many calories you and your crew expect to burn. Is this a poke along and smell the roses kind of affair, or is it an ambitious, cover a lot of ground type deal?

In the case of my reference 5-day canoe trip, my buddy and I planned to do a lot of hard paddling, in cold and windy conditions, while also banging out several challenging portages.

4000 calories a day per person

Taking all of this into consideration, we determined that we would need about 4,000 calories per day per person. 

What should I eat on a canoe camping trip?

Now that we've covered some general considerations, let's dive into a 5-day sample meal plan. For this trip, our campsites all included firepits with those built-in grill grates, and so we planned to do a lot of our cooking over open flame (particularly in the evening). But we also packed lots of fuel for our classic camping stoves. 

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 1

Breakfast: Consumed on shore before pushing off

Lunch: Pre-made sandwiches, chips, and a piece of fruit (classic school lunch)

Dinner: 4 frozen/wrapped steaks, baked potatoes, and mushrooms 

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 2

Breakfast: Bacon (wrapped in vinegar-soaked cheesecloth for preservation purposes), eggs (see note below), and fresh bread

Lunch: “Trail lunch” for anticipated portages (i.e. trail mix, cheese/crackers, granola bars, beef jerky, peanut butter/jam).

Dinner: Frozen beef chili sealed in Ziploc bags and wrapped in newspaper

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 3

Breakfast: Instant oatmeal w/ dried fruit (raisins, blueberries, banana chips, etc.)

Lunch: Salami and cheese tortilla wraps (meat and cheese also wrapped in vinegar-soaked cheesecloth) + celery/carrots

Dinner: Dehydrated mac and cheese

Note: Although many camping meals say they are good for 2 people, in reality, after a day of hard paddling or trekking, most people seem to like a full package to themselves. 

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 4 

Breakfast: Instant oatmeal w/ dried fruit

Lunch:  Salami and cheese but this time on pita bread rather than tortillas + celery/carrots

Dinner: Dehydrated pad thai

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 5 

Breakfast: Instant oatmeal w/ dried fruit 

Lunch: Same as day 4

Dinner: Dehydrated meal (whatever flavor is left after the group picks them over for 3 nights)

Extra Snacks throughout the trip: 

Trail mix, cookies, brownies, fresh fruit (for the first few days), pepperettes, popcorn, tea/coffee

Can you bring eggs on a canoe trip?

You may have noticed my inclusion of eggs in the meal plan and wondered if that's ok to do. Eggs are a great source of protein, and they're super easy to cook up, so I love bringing them along.

The trick is keeping them protected, which can be done by getting one of those hard plastic egg cartons that you can find in any home/kitchen section of a big box store.

Our friends at Killarney Outfitters also blanched our eggs in advance, meaning they briefly dropped them in boiling water in order to kill all the bacteria on the shells. This helps extend the shelflife out in the wild. 

Shout out to Killarney Outfitters! 

All of these tasty and strategically planned meals during our canoe camping trip were laid out for us by Killarney Outfitters. I love working with them anytime I'm in the area, and since Killarney Provincial Park is one of my favorite places to paddle, we've gotten to know each other rather well over the years. They are so well-stocked and familiar with the area that you can essentially just show up with a toothbrush and a change of underwear, and they'll fix you up with the rest. 

I hope all this talk of camping food has you chomping at the bit for your next canoe trip. Each person and each excursion is a little different, but this should give you some idea of what to pack, and what to skip over. For more paddling tips, gear reviews, and to share in the adventures, make sure to follow along with PaddleTV and subscribe to the Hazeadventure newsletter. 

The post Canoe Camping Trip and Meal Planning appeared first on Hazeadventure.

For example, one of the coolest by-products that has emerged is the ability to customize your kayak with fancy gadgets. Lots of these are applicable to anglers, but plenty also apply to recreational kayakers. So today I'm going to talk about how to outfit your boat with a range of neat accessories.

What accessories should I buy for my kayak?

In terms of dependable accessory brands, RAM and Scotty were the first on the scene, and both continue to knock it out of the park. And then more recently, YakAttack and RAILBLAZA have been coming out with a lot of great stuff – pushing everyone to constantly up their game. Let's run through a bunch of specific add-ons that might apply to your paddling adventures:

• YakAttack VISICarbon Pro Safety Flag/LED light. This is a great piece of safety gear and is particularly useful if you're paddling in low light, areas with some brush cover, or if you see power boats rushing around. 
• Rod holders
• Paddle holders (ex. YakAttack RotoGrip)
• Lanyards – for attaching anything that you'd like to have readily accessible but don't want to accidentally donate to the deep blue abyss. 
• Cup holders 
• Any variety of camera mounts (ex. RAILBLAZA's Camera Boom 600 R-Lock)
• Cell phone mount (ex RAM's X-Grip)

And the list goes on! Do yourself a favor and click through some of the brand links above to get a feel for the wide world of accessories.

What are the rails for on a kayak?

A lot of kayaks these days, especially sit-on-tops that are specifically designed for anglers, come with some tracks installed. These are designed for attaching accessories of all kinds (not just for fishing). But this doesn't mean that they're always in the right places.

As you spend more time on the water, you'll start to get a feel for what you want, and where you want it. So whether you're starting on a blank canvas, or building on an existing framework, there are a few different mounting systems to look at.

Tracks are Popular

Tracks are definitely the most popular choice. They come in various lengths that can be mounted on flat surfaces across your boat. Take stock of what's available to you. There is also a ball-mount, which RAM originally came out with.

This provides unlimited range of motion for anything that has a matching attachment (such as the X-Grip Phone Mount). And finally, there are post-mounts, which like the ball-mount, can be secured just about anywhere.

How do you mount rails on a kayak?

There are two options when attaching rails or other accessories mounts: you can bolt them to the kayak, or screw into the kayak. Bolting is the more secure of the two options, but in order to do that, you have to be able to access the underside of the kayak (which isn't going to happen with a sit-on-top). So this will be a much more limited approach than simply screwing into the shell.

Drill a Small Pilot Hole

When it comes to screwing, first you'll want to drill a pilot hole. Make sure that it is smaller than the screw, so that there is still something for it to bite into. Once the first anchor is in place, work in a star pattern (like when changing a tire) to put the rest in. If you want a step-by-step visual aid, click here for my PaddlingTV video.

Is it OK to drill holes in a kayak?

There is no doubt that drilling holes in your kayak is a little daunting at first. But this is how you'll be able to screw in accessory mounts. Just take your time, don't try to drill all the holes at once (or you'll inevitably run into an alignment issue), and don't over tighten the screws. Once the gear mount is in place, you won't have to worry about water getting into those newly made perforations.

Now that you know how to mount accessories to your kayak, you may want to channel your inner Ken Whiting and start filming your paddling trips. If you're curious about getting some fun action shots, check out my step by step guide to help get you going. And as always, subscribe to the newsletter to get the latest tips and techniques.

The post Customize Your Kayak: Mount Accessories on Your Kayak appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Surf Ears Review

What are the best earplugs to keep water out of your ears?

Surf Ears are specially designed ear plugs that keep the water out, but let the sound in. Plus, they don't impede your balance. If you're repeatedly submerging your head, then that water can get trapped in your ear canal and cause an infection. And the more infections you get, the easier each subsequent one grabs hold. This is due to something called exostosis. 

This phenomenon is particularly common with repeated cold water submersions. Over time, a bony growth in the inner ear forms as an attempt to block out the water. This also impedes hearing and stops the water from finding its way back out (which leads to more infections).

Nowadays, when I do rough-water kayaking, I pop in some ear plugs. I used to use super cheap ear plugs. Whatever kind of ear plugs I could buy at the local drugstore. Until I tried Surf Ears. I gave them a spin in some pretty gnarly whitewater, and they totally did the trick. They didn't move, they kept the water out, and I was still able to communicate with my crew. Even if they were to pop out, there is a simple strap system that keeps them around your neck. They are $50 (USD), which isn't cheap for kayak gear, but I would take that deal just to avoid one ear infection! Or recurring ear infections and ear bone growth! 

RapidPure Purifier & Water Bottle Review

How does the RapidPure purifier work?

This thing is a dream for paddlers. As long as you're on a fresh body of water, simply reach over the side of your boat, scoop up some water into the bottle, screw the cap back on, and then suck the drinkable water out. Since this is a purifier, it will take care of protozoa, parasites, bacteria, and viruses. It's important to note that standard filters may separate the first three things, but they do not protect against viruses.

So that's a nice bonus! According to RapidPure, the replaceable canister can generate 75 gallons (341 liters) of drinking water. The insulated, stainless steel version retails for $100 (USD). You can cut that in half by opting for the plastic bottle instead. You'll also be able to attach the lid/filter system to other 2.5-inch lid bottles (such as a Nalgene). 

Wiley X Sunglasses Review

Are Wiley X glasses good?

Sunglasses aren't exactly a revolutionary piece of equipment, and yet, I'm always surprised to see so few paddlers wearing them since they are a key piece of kayak gear. Even if you have a hat that keeps the rays off your face, you have to account for the high reflectivity of the water that will zing you from below. I've been using Wiley X sunglasses for about a year now.

Full disclosure, they are a sponsor of Paddle Tales, but they're a sponsor because I love wearing them. I've been fortunate enough to be able to test them across a range of conditions. I have experimented with different lens colors. Lens color can have a noticeable impact depending on if it's overcast or sunny. No matter the style, the lenses will be polarized and shatter-proof (which is a great asset for kayak gear). 

Blue Dot Outfitters Jocassee Kayak Cooler Review

What kind of cooler do I need for a kayak?

I've really been liking the Jocassee Kayak Cooler by Blue Dot Outfitters. Using a simple and versatile bungee strap system, it attaches to the back of just about any recreational kayak seat. It can hold 10 cans (of healthy, hydrating coconut water, obviously…), or maybe just a few cans and a nice lunch for you and some buddies.

The kayak cooler has a slick shoulder strap. The shoulder strap is great when moving from the kayak to your choice picnic spot. Best of all, this kayak cooler retails for just $65 (USD). This is super competitive when compared to some of the other popular brands out there. 

Farm to Summit Dehydrated Meals Review

What are good dehydrated meals? 

There are a lot of dehydrated meals to choose from for camping. Obviously, the first thing to focus on is palatable, dare I say, even tasty selections. Farm to Summit passed that test with flying colors (especially the green chile mac & cheese and the thai red curry). But what also caught my attention was the brand's wholesome story.

Farm to Summit is run by a couple of gals in Colorado. They have a love for food, the outdoors, and the environment. Their mission is to make hearty meals for us adventurers, while also reducing food waste. That's a cool combo.  

Dryrobe Review

What is the point of a dryrobe?

Let me tell you. There is so much to love about kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, canoeing, surfing, etc., but one thing I could do without is having to awkwardly change clothes. So often I find myself on a busy lake or public beach, unsure of how to best ditch my bathing suit.

It is even worse when it's cold and wet. That's where the Dryrobe comes in. The Dryrobe is a roomy, waterproof poncho that's also lined with a super soft, synthetic lambswool (that's made from 100% recycled polyester). This model is best suited for harsher conditions. They also make a simple cloth version for hot sunny days. The heavy-duty dryrobe retails for $215 (USD). This price is a pretty-penny! If you do a lot of cold-water paddling then you'll get good use out of this comfortable piece of kayak gear. 

Dryrobe Changing Mat

Another dryrobe product that I use even more than the actual robe, is the changing mat. This has become a permanent fixture in my truck because it's great for changing in and out of my booties.

A water-resistant shell on the outside. The inside has that same lambswool material to embrace my feet in a nice warm hug. This piece is great for gravel parking lots, wet grass, or really any surface. Perfect when you want some separation between your bare feet and the ground. This little changing mat is a game-changer, and it only costs $30 (USD).

Check out paddling tips, adventures and gear guides

So those are the things that have added some extra flavor to my paddling adventures. Perhaps a couple of these can make your experiences a little more enjoyable, comfortable, fun, and/or tasty! If you liked this article, be sure to check out more of my tips, reviews, how-tos by subscribing to our newsletter.

Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links in which Ken Whiting earns a small commission at no additional cost to you, but it is a great way to show your support. Thanks!

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