Why River Kayaking Is Special — And Risky

Rivers are often narrower than lakes or oceans, which means if you capsize, shore is usually within swimming distance. This makes river kayaking generally safe, but the strong and sometimes unpredictable current demands respect. Understanding common river kayaking mistakes is key to staying safe and enjoying your trip.

1. Not Wearing a Proper PFD

One of the most critical river kayaking mistakes is neglecting your Personal Flotation Device (PFD) or lifejacket. Think of your PFD as a seatbelt for the water—it might seem unnecessary 99% of the time but can save your life in that 1% when things go wrong. Importantly, choose a paddling-specific PFD designed for comfort and freedom of movement so you’re less likely to want to remove it mid-trip.

2. Ignoring Water Levels and Current

Many kayakers underestimate how dramatically water levels affect river currents, and how quickly levels can change. High water or flood conditions can make currents much faster and more powerful, increasing the chance of being flipped or swept into hazards.

One of the biggest river kayaking mistakes is heading out without checking current water conditions or knowing when to bail early if the water level starts to change and things get dangerous.

3. Using the Wrong Kayak for River Conditions

Taking the wrong kayak on a river can be a fatal mistake. If there is only very mild current, then any kayak will do the trick. But if the current gets a little stronger, choosing the right kayak is critical. In particular, recreational sit-inside kayaks without bulkheads may fill with water if swamped, making it difficult or impossible to control. Bulkheads are walls inside the kayak that separate the boat into separate watertight compartments. Sit-on-top kayaks and inflatable kayaks are always good choices for rivers with current, because they won’t swamp and always float.

Understanding your kayak’s capabilities is key to avoiding serious river kayaking mistakes. Learn how to pick the best kayak for your next river adventure.

4. Underestimating Hazards Like Low-Head Dams and Strainers

Low-head dams and strainers (fallen trees or log jams) are deceptively dangerous. They can trap kayakers and swimmers underwater, making them deadly river hazards. One of the most avoidable river kayaking mistakes is not scouting ahead or portaging around these obstacles, especially if the current pushes you toward them.

5. Not Wearing a Helmet When Needed

While not every river trip requires a helmet, paddlers should wear one when there’s a reasonable chance of flippingin white water above Class I. Skipping helmet use is a common river kayaking mistake that can lead to serious injury.

Stay Safe and Enjoy the Rivers

Rivers are some of the most rewarding places to kayak, but they demand respect and preparation. Avoiding these top river kayaking mistakes—wearing your PFD, checking water levels, choosing the right kayak, scouting hazards, and wearing a helmet when needed—will keep you safe and help you fully enjoy your adventure.

Paddle smart and make rivers your favorite paddling spot!

The post Top 5 Deadly River Kayaking Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them!) appeared first on Hazeadventure.

First, let me emphasize something important—kayaking is an incredibly safe activity overall. However, like any sport involving nature's elements, it demands respect and preparedness. That's why I'm passionate about sharing these insights; to ensure your time on the water is not just exhilarating but also as safe as possible. I want to give a special shout-out to our partner, the American Canoe Association (ACA). They've been instrumental in promoting paddling safety and education. Check out their paddling course for more great information.

Wear Your PFD (Personal Flotation Device)

Let's start with the basics. Wearing a PFD isn't just a suggestion; it's non-negotiable. As my friend Chad Hoover humorously puts it, “PFD stands for ‘pretty freaking dumb' if you don't wear one.” Whether you're paddling calm waters or braving more challenging conditions, a PFD is your seatbelt on the water—an essential piece of gear that can save your life in unforeseen circumstances.

Dress for Immersion

One of the gravest mistakes paddlers make is not dressing appropriately for immersion. Imagine a warm day on the beach; it's tempting to wear light, cotton clothing. However, when you're paddling and there's a chance of immersion in cold water, cotton becomes your worst enemy. Opt instead for synthetic fabrics like fleece or polypropylene that insulate even when wet, or consider a wetsuit or drysuit for added protection.

Know Your Limits: Distance from Shore and Re-Entry

Another critical point is understanding your capabilities when it comes to re-entering your kayak from the water. Practice re-entry to the kayak, practice this skill in calm conditions before venturing further from shore. It's not just about physical strength; it's about confidence and preparedness for any scenario that might arise.

Respect the Weather

Bad weather can escalate quickly, posing significant risks if you're unprepared and potentially becoming a fatal kayaking mistake. Always check the forecast and be ready to adjust your plans. Never feel compelled to push forward through hazardous conditions; having the ability to wait it out or find shelter can make all the difference.

Awareness of River Hazards

Navigating rivers adds another layer of complexity. Dams and log jams can be lethal if not approached with caution. Avoid low-head dams and steer clear of log jams, especially in high-water conditions where currents are stronger and more unpredictable.

Stay Grounded: Standing in Current

Standing up in fast-moving water might seem harmless, but it can lead to serious accidents. The riverbed is often uneven and can trap your foot, making it impossible to regain stability. Always swim to shallow water before attempting to stand.

Protect Yourself from the Elements

Lastly, don't overlook protection from the sun and heat. Wear a hat, apply sunscreen, and choose clothing that shields you from UV rays. Staying hydrated is equally crucial; invest in reliable water filtration systems if paddling in fresh water.

By being aware of these common pitfalls and taking proactive measures, you can significantly enhance your safety and enjoyment while kayaking. Remember, preparation and knowledge are your best allies on the water.

I want to give a special shout-out to our partner, the American Canoe Association (ACA). They've been instrumental in promoting paddling safety and education. Check out their paddling course for more great information.

For more in-depth tips and insights, subscribe to my PaddleTV YouTube channel, where I cover a wide range of paddling topics and gear reviews. Stay safe, stay prepared, and keep exploring!

Happy paddling,

Ken Whiting

The post Fatal Kayaking Mistakes appeared first on Hazeadventure.

1. Spring paddling tips #1: Give Your Gear Some Love

You rely on your gear as a kayaker, so you have to keep it well-maintained. Spring is the right time to maintain your gear, so here are some ways to keep it well-maintained. 

Waterproofing Treatment

In Spring, the weather and the water are colder. Depending on where you live, it can still be freezing. So, when on the water, you will need your dry wear to stay dry. Dry gear needs to be treated with a waterproofing treatment for it to keep working well. 

Waterproofing treatments are easy to use, and there are many options available. My go-to is Nikwax, which I have been using Nikwax for a decade. 

303 Protectant

The 303 Protectant spray has been a go-to product in the kayaking industry for many years. It protects your gear in a variety of ways.

It protects the gaskets on your dry suit or top from drying out and cracking and is also a UV protectant. Therefore, 303 Protectant protects anything likely to be hit by the sun. For example, it helps keep kayaks from fading or deteriorating due to harmful UV rays. To use it, all you do is spray the product on a surface and wipe it down with a rag.  

2. Start Slowly

Likely over the winter, you have not paddled much, if at all. So, you should not expect that you can still do the things you were doing at the end of the last paddling season. It is an easy trap to fall into.

The problem with diving straight into a big day of paddling is that it can lead to overuse injuries. These might simply be blisters on your hand. However, it could lead to something worse, such as tendonitis in your wrist or shoulder. Overuse injuries like tendonitis can stop you from paddling for a longer chunk of time. So, when you start kayaking again at the beginning of the season, it is important to lower your expectations. Do not try to paddle as far, and don’t try to do as much as you were at the end of last season. Instead, work your way up to the longer, harder paddles. 

Another good idea to avoid injury is to do some related exercises before you get back into your boat. Doing this allows your body to get back into shape for paddling. These exercises can be as simple as push-ups. When I know the paddling season is about to begin, I start doing daily push-ups. I start strengthening my body and getting it ready. 

3. Bring an Emergency Kit

An emergency kit is a dry bag filled with items you might need in an emergency, such as extra gear. In the springtime, temperatures can often drop significantly at the end of the day. You need to prepare for changing conditions in case you are out on the water longer than you intended. Extra gear can mean extra layers (tops and bottoms), hats, gloves, or anything that will keep you warm on the water. 

If you intend to travel further from shore, your emergency kit needs to contain gear that will help you keep warm overnight. In springtime, there is always the risk that you might get caught in a storm and be unable to get back to your starting point. In that case, you need to have gear that will allow you to survive camping out overnight. It does not have to be comfortable, but you do need to be able to survive. 

In a situation like this, the things you bring depend on where you are. It can include items like a fire starter, a lighter, a knife, zip ties, and a rope. Extra food, snacks, and water are also essential. You need to bring anything that you can fit in one or two dry bags that will, in a pinch, help you survive. 

The worst situation you can be in is being stuck on the water, feeling like you need to push through unsafe conditions to get back home just because you are underprepared. Bring an emergency kit so you can be more comfortable if things do not go as planned out on the water. And, so you can spend an emergency night out on the water if needed. 

4. Bring a Thermos

The easiest way to improve a Spring paddling trip is to bring a thermos. Bring a thermos with something warm to drink. I can guarantee that everyone in your group will love you. They will especially love you if you bring my favorite drink: baileys and hot water! One part of Baileys with eight to ten parts of hot water makes a delicious Baileys tea. 

If you bust a thermos out with something warm and tasty, your friends will love you. Not only that, but it really can change the mood of a trip, especially when people are a little cold and down in the dumps. So make sure to bring a thermos with something warm to drink. 

5. Dress for Immersion

Dressing for immersion is the biggest tip I can give anyone paddling in Spring conditions. At this time, the water is colder than usual, so you have to dress to be able to handle an unexpected swim. 

There is not a one-size-fits-all solution to what to wear. It depends on factors such as how cold the water is, the air temperature, how long you might be in the water, and how far away you will be from a warm and dry place. If it is cold conditions and you are soaking wet, your battle against hypothermia is not over until you can get to a place of warmth. All of these factors play a role in how you dress for immersion. 

In the Coldest Conditions

In the coldest conditions, you only have two choices. You have to either use a wetsuit or a dry suit. 

Wetsuits

The benefit of a wetsuit is that it is much cheaper than a dry suit. Other than that, there are not too many benefits. Wetsuits do the job and provide a great option for paddling in cold conditions. 

The neoprene in a wetsuit insulates you when it is wet. It holds a thin layer of water between you and the neoprene itself. Your body heats that water, and the neoprene layer lets you keep the heat in. For a wetsuit to work most effectively, the wetsuit needs to be form-fitting. Otherwise, the insulating layer does not work effectively. 

Wetsuits work, which is why you see surfers in the freezing cold ocean using them and staying warm enough while active. However, wetsuits are not as good an option as dry suits for paddling. The reason for that is that dry suits keep you completely dry. Wearing a wetsuit means you need to be wet! 

Dry Suits

Dry suits keep you dry because they have gaskets. Rubber gaskets on your neck, wrists, and ankles provide a waterproof seal. The suit is made from a waterproof, breathable material that lets you wear even your street clothes underneath it and stay dry. However, street clothes are not the right gear for paddling in the Spring. 

The dry suit does a great job of keeping you completely dry but does not provide insulation. So, underneath the dry suit, you need to wear layers that will insulate you. How many and which layers depend on how cold it is. But it is always a good idea to wear several different layers. That way, you can take layers off or add layers if you need to. 

I always wear a thin layer of merino wool as a base layer on both the top and bottom. I then wear a thicker fleece layer over the top of those. The size of this layer depends on the temperature outside. The joy of these materials is that they are moisture-wicking fabrics. Any sweat is pulled away from my body and does not cool me down. 

A dry suit is the ultimate protection against the cold but is expensive. It is one of those things that is worth buying if you intend to spend a lot of time out on the water in cold conditions. However, if you are not, it might be better to wait for warmer weather before you get out on the water. 

On your feet

My go-to shoe when paddling in cold conditions is the NRS Boundary boot. I have used this boot for over a decade because it is so good. It is a wetsuit boot, but unlike a wet suit, it is fully waterproof unless you step into deep water and the water gets over the cuff. So it keeps your feet warm. 

I wear the NRS Boundary boot over a dry suit with feet. That way, I can wear socks inside my dry suit and then put my warm, waterproofed, and socked feet into the shoe. So, there is no way my feet will get wet, even if I step into deep water. That makes for toastie feet. If you intend to wear a wetsuit boot over a dry suit, buy a wetsuit boot that is a little bigger than your usual boot. That way, you have space for the dry suit and socks!

On your hands

When it comes to keeping your hands warm, there are several choices. There are, for example, wetsuit mitts and gloves. You can find wetsuit mitts and gloves in many styles and thicknesses. 

You can also use something called pogies. To use pogies, you attach them to your paddle using velcro over the top of the paddle. Then, you slide your hands into the pogie and hold your paddle as normal. The joy of using pogies is that you have direct contact with your paddle. Pogies are ideal to use when performance is important, for example, when paddling in rough conditions. Due to the direct contact with your paddle, they allow you to have more control. 

I did, however, recently learn a limitation of pogies. At the beginning of the winter, I took a multi-day trip alone. To keep a long story short, while I was resting my boat floated away by itself. I had to swim after the kayak. Luckily, I had a dry suit on because the weather was below-freezing. But because I was using pogies on that trip, I ended up swimming with bare hands. Despite only being in the water for about a minute, my hands were numb and useless with no gloves. Until they warmed up, I could not do anything. 

This experience was a bit of a wake-up call that, while paddling, pogies are my favorite. However, you cannot always gear up based on the best situation, instead, you have to plan your gear for the worst-case scenarios. In cold conditions, the worst-case scenario is going for a swim. So, learning from that, next time I paddle in very cold conditions, I will not use pogies but will wear something that will allow me to manage a swim much better. 

In Cool Conditions

When the conditions are not as cold but are still cool, you should still dress for immersion. You still need to dress in a way that will let you survive a swim – whether it is comfortable or not. 

There are lots of different options for what to wear in cool conditions. So, you may not need to wear a wet suit or dry suit, but you might be able to wear a paddling top or splash top with no gaskets. If the water is not too cold, you may not need to stay fully dry, so a splash top could be sufficient. 

In cool conditions, you will always need to wear layers – and particularly moisture-wicking layers. These layers should be moisture-wicking and insulating to keep you warm. The one rule is that you should never wear cotton while out on the water when it is cold because it does not insulate when it is wet. Cotton does the opposite. It draws warmth from your body. So, on hot days, a cotton T-shirt is not a bad idea – but that is a different story. In cool water, in springtime, do not wear cotton. 

In cooler conditions, I often wear the NRS Hydroskin, which has a wetsuit material on the outside and a fleece inside. It acts like a wetsuit when it is wet and insulates when it is both wet or dry. I will then add different layers of fleece. But the great thing about these layers is that they last a long time if looked after properly. 

On your feet and hands

In cooler conditions, booties are a great option to wear on your feet. I use wetsuit boots made of neoprene and designed to insulate when dry or wet. I will use this style of boot until it gets too hot to use them anymore. 

If your hands get cold quickly, several different types of light gloves can take the edge off of the cold. 

The reality of paddling in the Spring is that you need to have the right gear. If you intend to paddle in cold conditions, you need to invest in the right gear because hypothermia is a real thing that can creep up on you. Gear up and make conservative decisions in the Spring to keep yourself safe. 

Happy paddling! 

Cold Water Gear: NRS Flux Dry Top, NRS HydroSkin Pants, NRS Boundry Boots, NRS Wetsuit, NRS Pogies, NRS Wetsuit Booties
Kayaks: Swell Watercraft Scupper 14
Paddles: Aqua Bound Manta Ray
PFD:  NRS Zen PFD, NRS Ninja Lifejacket

The post Five Top Spring Paddling Tips appeared first on Hazeadventure.

How Do We Measure Wind?

To start off, it is useful to know how we measure wind speed. Well, wind speed is measured in knots, miles (mph), or kilometers per hour (kmh). One knot is equivalent to 1.15 mph or 1.85 kmh. In the USA it is most common to use miles per hour.

How Does Wind Affect the Water?

As a general rule, any wind above 15-20 mph is too strong to kayak in. This wind strength makes the water too choppy and is too strong for you really to make any headway. In fact, you will most likely just get beaten up by the wind! Obviously, this varies a bit depending on your skill level or the bodies of water you will be paddling on.

In windy conditions, larger bodies of water are harder to kayak on as they will start to get waves. The size of the waves is impacted by the fetch. This is the length of water that is impacted by the wave before it reaches you. The more water that the wind has to travel over before it reaches you, the bigger the wave.

Protected and sheltered bodies of water, for example, small rivers between mountains, are impacted less by the wind. They will be unlikely to have waves and will be easier to kayak on when it is windy.

How Does Your Kayak Travel Through the Water?

To really understand how wind impacts your ability to kayak you should know how kayaks travel through water.

Most kayaks are designed with a bow keel, and this cuts through the water. As the kayak travels through the water, water hits the bow of the kayak. This effectively holds the bow in place due to the pressure. This pressure is maintained all the way through to the center point of the boat, which is the widest part. Beyond that point, towards the stern of the kayak, there is less water pressure. Therefore the stern can move more freely. This is why steering usually occurs in the stern.

What Happens When a Side/Beam Wind Hits Your Kayak?

As we just established, the stern of the kayak moves more freely in the water. Therefore when a side wind hits the kayak, it is the stern that will be pushed further than the bow. This will cause the kayak to turn into the wind, something we call ‘weather cocking’.

How Can You Stop Weather Cocking?

The extent to which your boat weather cocks will depend on the strength of the wind. In strong winds, where the stern is pushed aggressively you will need something to keep the stern in place.

And that is where rudders and skegs come in handy. The main purpose of a rudder or skeg is to drop down into the water and keep the stern from being pushed around. When dealing with wind they will help you keep your course. Without these, you will need to sweep harder on one side to keep correcting your boat from weather cocking. This quickly gets exhausting!

I wrote a full article on skegs and rudders. Check out my Kayak Rudder or Kayak Skeg article!

The other way you can prevent weather cocking is by tilting your kayak. This only works for rec/touring kayaks, sea kayaks, or any kayak that is slightly less wide. When you tilt your kayak, whether there is wind or not, it will turn away from the side you are tilting towards. So, in a beam wind, you can counter the effects of weather cocking by tilting into the wind. This is ideal for short periods of side wind. On a longer journey, however, this will quickly become too tiring to maintain. So for longer trips in a beam wind rudders and skegs are the best option.

What Happens in a Head Wind?

Headwinds suck when kayaking! But to go a little deeper, an average paddler, paddling at a sustained rate, will travel between 2-4 miles per hour. A strong enough headwind can provide enough resistance against a kayaker to significantly slow or stop them. For example, a headwind of between 15-20 mph can provide about 3-4 mph wind resistance on the kayaker. This will effectively stop them from moving forwards. At this point, it is hardly worth going to the effort of going kayaking.  

In slightly lower winds you might significantly be slowed down, but putting in the extra effort can keep you traveling forwards at a worthwhile speed. So then taking your kayak out is worth the effort.

How can you Deal With a Headwind?

Before kayaking in a strong headwind you do need to think about how worthwhile going out really is. If the wind is so strong that you won’t be able to move forwards against it, there is little point. By knowing the wind speed and your average kayaking speed you can work out how realistic it is for you to go kayaking. Sometimes you might be forced to put your gear away, find another place or try again tomorrow!

Another thing to think about when kayaking with a strong headwind is what your fastest route might be. Sometimes it may be faster to kayak further, but end up finding a more sheltered route, instead of grinding it out against the wind.

A good way to learn in-depth about strong wind is to take a sea kayaking course. The wind has a very strong effect on the sea. Learning how best to deal with that will really strengthen your kayaking skills.

What Happens to Your Kayak in a Tailwind?

Tailwinds tend to be friendly winds for kayakers. These will give you a boost instead of brakes!

Depending on the body of water you are in, tailwinds can be accompanied by waves. These waves can be surfed and will give you a fun, speedy boost. So you really can travel at some quite amazing speeds.

However, as the waves come from behind, you cannot see them. When your body gets surprised by the movements you can start to feel sea sickness. Whilst this doesn’t happen all too often, it can happen to anyone. The best course of action, if it does, is to turn into the wind. That way you can watch the waves coming to calm yourself down.

Things to Note When Kayaking in Windy Conditions

Head, side, and tailwinds are the main winds that you will face when kayaking. But there are a few other things to note about kayaking in windy conditions.

Areas Often Have Common Wind Themes

Different areas that you kayak tend to have common or recurring wind themes. For example, in Hood River Oregan where we are located, the winds are very predictable and rush from West to East up the Colombia River Gorge. That means you know what to expect and have to plan around that. Things like seasons and the time of the day also impact the wind you can expect.

It is always really important to know the wind themes of the place you are choosing to paddle. That way you can plan around them. On top of that, you should aim to discover the forecast of the day. To do that there are some great tools you can use such as the Windy app. This shows you the wind forecast and the current wind conditions for any location in the world.

Capsizing in the Wind

When capsizing in the wind your boat and paddles will be pushed down the river much faster than you. That is because you will be below the surface of the water but your kayak and paddle won't be. They will be on the faster moving, top layer of water and therefore blown much quicker down the river.

This is important to know because it means that if you do capsize in the wind you have to grab onto your boat and paddle. Otherwise, before you know it they are gone and there is no way you are going to catch them!

This is another good reason why, in windy conditions, it is essential that you are paddling with other people. And people whom you can count on. You will be each other's lifeline.

Bring a Communication Device

Wind can be the biggest hindrance in your kayaking plans. It might stop you from getting to your next location, or hinder you from going back to your vehicles. That means it is essential that you bring some sort of reliable communication device with you, especially when kayaking in windy conditions.

You also need to leave a float plan with somebody who is not joining your trip. That way they know where you are going, what the plan is, and where to look for you if you don’t show up.

Get Confident by Following a Sea Kayaking Course

Paddling in the wind really is a challenging thing to do. The windier it gets and the more exposed the water you are paddling in, the more difficulties the wind brings. So if you really want to paddle in very exposed locations or in strong winds you will really benefit from a sea kayaking course. Not just to learn how to deal with strong winds, but also to learn self-rescue skills, and to deal with accidents, capsizes, etc. Gaining that knowledge and expertise can bring you a high level of confidence when kayaking in windy conditions.

PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Zen PFD, NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Kayaks: Trak Kayaks, Liquid Logic Saluda
Paddle:  Aqua-Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece
Shirts and Tops:  NRS Silkweight Short sleeved shirt, NRS Silkweight Long-Sleeve Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Kayaking in Windy Conditions appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Best kayak for fishing rivers?

A sit-on-top hardshell is an excellent choice, and definitely the way to go for kayak anglers. A sit-on-top inflatable is a good choice if you don't mind sacrificing some performance and are mindful of the maintenance. Sit-inside hardshell kayaks can cut it in modest current, but will swamp if tipped over. If you ‘re looking to really attack the rapids, then nothing beats a whitewater kayak. Whitewater kayaks have spray skirts and these aren't a friendly fishing boat.

When it comes to fishing on rivers, many people prefer a sit-on-top hardshell kayak. Pedal kayaks have improved leaps and bounds over the years. For current, shallow spots, and rapids a paddle kayak is a great way to go for kayak fishing on rivers. 

Sitting Position for River Anglers

Quality fishing kayaks typically have seats that can adopt a high or low position. While casting out over calm waters, the high position offers a better vantage point to what lies beneath the surface. However, when you encounter some current, be sure to drop down into the low position, since this is a much more stable setup. 

Packing for Kayak Fishing Rivers

Packing for a kayak fishing trip will look quite different for a river run compared to a lake outing. My suggestion is to pack light, or as us river paddlers like to say: “Rig to flip”. Even if you know what you're doing and the river is relatively mild, it is always best to expect to flip. Then when this happens, all of your gear will be properly attached and stowed so that you don't lose anything.

Hard lessons

I learned this lesson the hard way while doing a 3-week paddling trip through the Grand Canyon. After an unexpected capsized raft, we lost all the food for the trip. Everything! So needless to say, that put a bit of a damper on the expedition. 

Selective packing

The best way to prevent losing valuable goods is to be more selective with your packing. Bring less rods; bring less tackle. This may mean some tough pre-game decisions. You'll be grateful for the minimal approach not only in terms of mitigating damage, but also for boosting performance. A bogged down kayak will be slower and less responsive across those winding and ever-changing waterways. 

How do you handle rocks while paddling rivers?

One of the main concerns kayakers have while paddling rivers is how to handle rocks. At any time, kayakers may find themselves getting pulled into sizeable rocks by the current. This happens more easily while fishing, since the focus tends to be elsewhere. Most people's natural reaction when drifting sideways into a rock is to lean away from it. This is an example of where our instincts mislead us.

Lean into the rock

You'll actually want to lean into the rock. The reason for this is that the current that's pushing into you will gain purchase on the kayak's edge (if you're leaning away from the rock/into the current) and flip the kayak remarkably quick! Conversely, if you lean into the rock/with the direction of flow, this will give the water a path under the boat, which will keep you upright until you're able to slowly push yourself around the rock and get on with your day. 

What's the best way to anchor a kayak?

The same principles for navigating rocks on the river apply to anchoring a kayak in current. If you like to drop an anchor while fishing on a river, it's important that you don't have the boat positioned perpendicular to the current. Once again, the force of the flowing water will pile up on the kayak's edge and flip you before you even know what's happening.

Anchoring a kayak

To be perfectly honest, I don't recommend anchoring at all while fishing rivers, but if you are set on doing so, you'll either have to maintain a downstream tilt (which is not easy to do), or drop the anchor from the ends of your kayak so that you're kayak points downstream (but beware that strong enough current will still accumulate and potentially cause problems). Keep in mind that if you want to linger in one spot, you can always beach your kayak and cast out from the shore. 

Flowing rivers can be great places to catch fish because they tend to be untapped wells. However, the reason these spots are less visited is because the current, rocks, and rapids can be difficult to manage, especially while trying to split your attention. But if you pack light, avoid anchoring, and act smart around rocks, you'll be set up nicely to snag big fish while going with the flow. 

Kayaks: Jackson Kayak Coosa, Jackson Kayak YuPik
Paddle: Bending Branches Angler Pro Versa-Lok
PFDs: NRS Zen (Product Details)
Clothing: NRS Guide Shirt, NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

I hope you enjoyed this article. For more paddling/fishing content, check out PaddleTV, and sign up for our Hazeadventure newsletter to be notified of the latest and greatest tips, gear reviews, and outdoor excursions. 

The post Tips for Kayak Fishing Rivers appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Paddling rivers demands certain skills from the kayaker, and specific design traits from the boat. In this article, I'll unpack the different kayaks used for river trips so that you have a solid baseline to select the best kayaks for rivers.

What are the best kayaks for rivers?

Generally speaking, the best kayaks for rivers are ones that are stable. Kayaks that are shorter in length, more maneuverable, and won't “swamp” easily are the best kayaks for rivers. In my opinion/experience, there are four types of kayaks that check these boxes: sit on top kayaks, sit on top inflatable kayaks, recreational sit inside kayaks, and whitewater kayaks. Let's look a little closer at each style. 

Sit On Top Kayak

Sit on top kayaks are reliably stable, comfortable to sit in with adjustable seats in the higher-end models. Any water that comes aboard will simply drain back out through the scupper holes. If you happen to flip while you're out there, you can either just right the ship and climb back on, or you can drag it ashore more easily than a sit-inside that's full of water. 

Inflatable Kayak

Contrary to (somewhat) popular belief, inflatable kayaks can be amazing river-running boats. They're as comfortable as a floating lounge-chair, but quality models are surprisingly durable (as long as some care and attention is given). Inflatable kayaks also tend to be spectacularly stable.

You'll be amazed how difficult it is to flip one of these, even in rough conditions. I consider them the 4×4 of the kayaking world. The main drawback here is that they are rarely high-performing crafts – certainly not compared to a hardshell of the same class. But if you just want to chug along casually, a sit-on-top inflatable is a perfect way to go. 

Sit Inside Kayak

Sit inside kayaks aren't ideal for whitewater rivers, but if the current is consistently mild, then there's no reason why you can't take an everyday kayak down your local waterway. If you do tip over the kayak, the cockpit will swamp. This probably means swimming while dragging the boat to shore in order to empty it out. But if you like the feel of a sit-inside kayak and want to really get after it on the river, just be aware of any strong current.

Whitewater Kayak

A whitewater kayak is the ultimate high-performance sit inside kayak. These playful boats can handle anything from Class 1 moving water to Class 5 waterfalls. They have small cockpits (where you sit inside) that are designed to be sealed from the water with a skirt.

These river kayaks are short and wide (i.e. stable and maneuverable). The only real limitations of whitewater kayaks are those imposed by us whitewater kayakers. If you are starting to whitewater kayak, practice your kayak roll in a local pool. This will make sure you are able to stay in the kayak if you get knocked over in the waves.

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If you're looking to switch it up and kayak rivers instead of lakes, these are the four types of river kayaks. You don't have to be a pro kayaker to take on varying levels of river current. It certainly helps to have the right river kayak for the job. If you enjoyed this article and are hungry for more paddling tips, tricks, reviews, and adventures, head on over to PaddleTV and sign up for our Hazeadventure.com newsletter. 

Sit on top kayak: Jackson Kayak YuPik
Inflatable kayak: Star Inflatable Kayak
Sit inside kayak: Jackson Kayak Tupelo
Whitewater kayak: Jackson Kayak Rockstar V
Paddle: Aqua Bound Shred Whitewater Paddle, Bending Branches Angler Classic Fishing Paddle
PFDs: NRS Zen, NRS Chinook
Helmet: WRSI Current Helmet

The post Best Kayaks for Rivers appeared first on Hazeadventure.

So today I want to give you a sample meal plan for a 5-day canoe camping trip with multiple portages. My advice for planning meals on a canoe trip could be something that you can use as a baseline reference. Adjust it and personalize it to make your canoe trip a success. 

Packing food for an extended canoe camping trip

Before you get underway, there are a few environmental factors that will dictate how you should pack for a canoe camping trip. For example, does your route entail a lot of portages or is it mostly long paddles between campsites?

One of the benefits of a canoe trip over a kayak or a backpacking adventure is that you can chuck in a lot of bulky and bonus items. However, if you need to repeatedly lug all of that overland, then that prior advantage becomes more of a nuisance.

Multiple portages means lighter foods

So if your trip does involve multiple portages, I recommend sticking with lighter, more packable foods. If you're set up to predominantly paddle, then go nuts with those luxury foods and bonus treats. 

Weather is important for food planning

Another environmental factor to consider when canoe camping (as best as you can in advance) is the weather. Namely, how hot will it be? This will determine the shelf-life of different foods. If it's a scorching hot summer trip, then maybe scale back on the packaged meats. But if it's a cooler area or time of year, then you can get away with a lot more.

As a general rule, I like to pack more fresh foods for the first 2 days, and then I'll switch over to pre-packaged and dehydrated stuff, just to be on the safe side. 

Calories you burn on a multi-day canoe trip

And a final thing to consider is how many calories you and your crew expect to burn. Is this a poke along and smell the roses kind of affair, or is it an ambitious, cover a lot of ground type deal?

In the case of my reference 5-day canoe trip, my buddy and I planned to do a lot of hard paddling, in cold and windy conditions, while also banging out several challenging portages.

4000 calories a day per person

Taking all of this into consideration, we determined that we would need about 4,000 calories per day per person. 

What should I eat on a canoe camping trip?

Now that we've covered some general considerations, let's dive into a 5-day sample meal plan. For this trip, our campsites all included firepits with those built-in grill grates, and so we planned to do a lot of our cooking over open flame (particularly in the evening). But we also packed lots of fuel for our classic camping stoves. 

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 1

Breakfast: Consumed on shore before pushing off

Lunch: Pre-made sandwiches, chips, and a piece of fruit (classic school lunch)

Dinner: 4 frozen/wrapped steaks, baked potatoes, and mushrooms 

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 2

Breakfast: Bacon (wrapped in vinegar-soaked cheesecloth for preservation purposes), eggs (see note below), and fresh bread

Lunch: “Trail lunch” for anticipated portages (i.e. trail mix, cheese/crackers, granola bars, beef jerky, peanut butter/jam).

Dinner: Frozen beef chili sealed in Ziploc bags and wrapped in newspaper

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 3

Breakfast: Instant oatmeal w/ dried fruit (raisins, blueberries, banana chips, etc.)

Lunch: Salami and cheese tortilla wraps (meat and cheese also wrapped in vinegar-soaked cheesecloth) + celery/carrots

Dinner: Dehydrated mac and cheese

Note: Although many camping meals say they are good for 2 people, in reality, after a day of hard paddling or trekking, most people seem to like a full package to themselves. 

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 4 

Breakfast: Instant oatmeal w/ dried fruit

Lunch:  Salami and cheese but this time on pita bread rather than tortillas + celery/carrots

Dinner: Dehydrated pad thai

Meal Plan for Canoe Camping Day 5 

Breakfast: Instant oatmeal w/ dried fruit 

Lunch: Same as day 4

Dinner: Dehydrated meal (whatever flavor is left after the group picks them over for 3 nights)

Extra Snacks throughout the trip: 

Trail mix, cookies, brownies, fresh fruit (for the first few days), pepperettes, popcorn, tea/coffee

Can you bring eggs on a canoe trip?

You may have noticed my inclusion of eggs in the meal plan and wondered if that's ok to do. Eggs are a great source of protein, and they're super easy to cook up, so I love bringing them along.

The trick is keeping them protected, which can be done by getting one of those hard plastic egg cartons that you can find in any home/kitchen section of a big box store.

Our friends at Killarney Outfitters also blanched our eggs in advance, meaning they briefly dropped them in boiling water in order to kill all the bacteria on the shells. This helps extend the shelflife out in the wild. 

Shout out to Killarney Outfitters! 

All of these tasty and strategically planned meals during our canoe camping trip were laid out for us by Killarney Outfitters. I love working with them anytime I'm in the area, and since Killarney Provincial Park is one of my favorite places to paddle, we've gotten to know each other rather well over the years. They are so well-stocked and familiar with the area that you can essentially just show up with a toothbrush and a change of underwear, and they'll fix you up with the rest. 

I hope all this talk of camping food has you chomping at the bit for your next canoe trip. Each person and each excursion is a little different, but this should give you some idea of what to pack, and what to skip over. For more paddling tips, gear reviews, and to share in the adventures, make sure to follow along with PaddleTV and subscribe to the Hazeadventure newsletter. 

The post Canoe Camping Trip and Meal Planning appeared first on Hazeadventure.

If you're still mulling over these initial decisions then you might want to start with some videos I've put up recently that go deeper down those wells (click here and here). From there, you'll want to consider some of the finer details, such as length, width, hull design, and other things of that nature.

And that's what we're going to focus on today. Don't be deterred if you're just getting started on your new kayak quest. This information will still be relevant to you. This will all come into play when making your ultimate decision. 

What difference does the length of a kayak make?

The length of a kayak can impact speed, trackability (i.e. its ability to hold a course), and portability. As a general rule, a longer kayak is going to be faster, and it's going to track better, but it's also going to be more difficult to transport, since it's inherently more cumbersome to lug around.

How to Choose the Right Kayak

The length of the kayak is a metrics used to classify distinct categories. A few of the standards (though there are others that exist) are recreational kayaks, which are generally between 9 – 13 feet, touring kayaks, which are more so in the 12 – 15 foot range, and then sea kayaks are typically between 15 – 18 feet in length. 

How wide should a kayak be?

The width of a kayak will again influence its speed, but also its stability. Generally speaking, the wider a kayak is, the more stable it is, but speed suffers as a consequence. The narrower a kayak is, the faster it will be, but the easier it will flip. The width also helps determine the recreational/touring/sea kayak breakdown. Recreational kayaks are typically 28 inches or wider; touring models range from 23 – 28 inches, and then sea kayaks measure in at a lean and mean 21 – 24 inches wide. 

Time for our semi-regular side-note on safety!

If you've been following along with our PaddleTV scene then hopefully you've heard me talk about the free online paddling safety course, and have had a chance to check it out. The free online paddling safety course is put on by the American Canoe Association and the U.S. Coast Guard. Paddling of any kind is generally a safe activity, but things can take an unexpected turn. When that happens, a little bit of know-how can make a huge difference. Check this course out to make sure you know how to navigate all potential scenarios. 

What type of hull is best for a kayak? 

The design of kayak's hull has a huge impact on its performance. For simplicity sake, I'll go into each hull type on its own, but just know that a lot of companies have hybrid designs, which aim to bring out the best of both worlds.

Contrary to popular belief, the bow and stern aren't necessarily representative of the type of hull a kayak has. The thing you want to pay most attention to is the large, central part of the kayak – underneath where you're sitting, as well as the area just behind you. The bow design deserves its own, separate consideration, and we'll get there in a second. 

Flat hull kayak design

If you're in the market for a recreational kayak that is as stable as possible, then you'll be looking for something with a flat hull. With this approach, the trade-off for that solid platform is something that creates a lot of drag, and therefore slows things down significantly. It's also important to understand that flat hulls offer a ton of primary stability (i.e. how the kayak feels when you're sitting flat), but not much in the way of secondary stability (i.e. how stable things are when holding an edge). The reason for this is that the boat doesn't want to even shift into a compromised position. It just wants to sit there nice and flat, free from any chance of tipping.

Kayak on its edge

And why would you want to rock a kayak on its edges? Well, that's a key position for rougher conditions (i.e. dealing with waves, current, etc). If that's your goal, steer clear of flat hulls. The notable exception is flat-hulls on whitewater kayaks – but that's a different story for another day. 

Not perfectly flat

You'll notice if you examine a flat hull that it's rarely perfectly flat. Oftentimes there are channels or grooves. There's an argument to be made that these channels help the kayak track better. More importantly, the channels increase its structural integrity. These little waves help boost the rigidity along its length. This prevents the bottom from getting warped over time. 

Round hull kayak design

Next up, we have to look at round, or roundish, hulls (very few kayaks have perfectly round hulls). The benefit of a mostly-round hull is that you gain speed and secondary stability, but in exchange for giving up some primary stability. This design is common amongst sea kayaks, since it gives the versatility needed in rough waters. 

V-hull kayak design

The third type of hull to note is the V-hull. In the case of some V-hulls, the bow and stern actually are factored into the mix. This design is all about maximizing speed, tracking, and secondary stability, once again at the expense of primary stability. A kayak with a V-hull will not want to sit flat. Instead, it will want to lock-in while on edge, and cut through that water nice and efficiently. 

Pontoon style kayak design

A relatively newer hull design is the pontoon style. These are similar to flat hulls in that they produce excellent primary stability, but they also track more efficiently, which means they are consequently a little faster than their flat counterparts. Pontoon hulls also handle chop a bit better, since they don't get bounced around as aggressively. Just be aware that I'm only referring to modest conditions. Since a pontoon hull doesn't produce much secondary stability, it's still not meant for full-on rough conditions. 

What is the bow of a kayak? 

The bow, or the front section of a kayak, also plays a pivotal role in performance. For example, a V-shaped bow is excellent for slicing through the water, and helping the boat track. Sometimes what you'll see is a v-bow on a rounded-hull. This is because it's the central part of the kayak, not the ends, that impacts the kayak's stability and edge control. So this is one of those best-of-both-worlds approaches that seeks to improve all-round performance. 

Flat bow SUP design and inflatable kayaks

You will also come across flat bows, particularly in inflatable kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. This bow shape isn't designed to be slicey, it's designed for maneuverability. As you can imagine, this does not put them in the speed-demon category since with every stroke you take, the bow wants to turn with that momentum.

Flat bow kayak design means flatwater

This is why you'll often see skegs/fins on the back of boats/boards with flat bows. These help the craft go in at least a somewhat straight line. A flat bow also bounces along in choppy conditions, since it doesn't have the ability to cut through those waves. A flat bow kayak design is meant purely for flatwater kayaking. 

What does the top of the bow do in the kayak?

Some kayaks have flat, wide bow tops, while others have narrow, rounded designs. These shapes respond differently when hit by bigger waves. The former will take the brunt of the water, which as you can probably imagine, will cause it to rush into the cockpit and perhaps swamp the kayak. Whereas on the flat, narrow top, that water will simply shed off without making a fuss. So the theme continues: it depends on what conditions you expect to paddle in. 

Does the color of a kayak matter? 

A lot of people don't realize that color is actually one of the most important details of a kayak. Boats with red, orange, or yellow pigment are less dense, and therefore more stable, while blue, green, and black kayaks…I can't even finish typing this.

I'm totally just making this up, but I bet I had you going for a second! Color, other than boosting visibility, is just a fun personal preference that can be decided on after all these other criteria are addressed. 

Shout out to our sponsor GearLab Outdoor

One of the cool gear-reviews I got to do recently was for the GearLab Outdoor Greenland paddle. Once you've decided on which type of kayak you're going to get, and the best specs for your own adventure, you'll then want to think about what paddle suits your style. The cool thing about Greenland paddles is that, once you get the technique figured out, they spread the load from each stroke over a greater surface area. This reduces the strain on the body, especially on a longer trip. If you want to learn more, check out the review I just did for GearLab Outdoor's IPIK paddle. 

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That's a lot of information to take in today. Aside from reading up a bit, one of the best things you can do to feel confident in your kayak choice is to pay a visit to your local paddling shop. They'll be able to go through all of this with you, and point you in the right direction based on your wants/needs. In the meantime, subscribe to our newsletter for more paddling inspiration and examples of what to look for when choosing the right kayak.

The post How Kayak Design Affects Performance appeared first on Hazeadventure.

The standard kayak camping setup

In the wake of these trips, and some of the reviews I post, I'm often asked about the full extent of my gear. So today I thought I would give you a snapshot of a typical setup I go with when paddling for a couple days on the river. This one will put particular emphasis on colder conditions. 

Choosing a kayak for camping

Let's start with the obvious, what kayak did I use? Even though this was a river trip, I decided on the 16-foot P&H Sea Kayaks Leo. Don't let the name fool you, sea kayaks are great in a whole host of conditions. For this reason, I refer to them simply as touring kayaks. I had previously tried (and loved) the 14-foot P&H Virgo, and so I was curious how the longer version would fare. I just posted an in-depth review of the Leo, so I'll stick to a brief synopsis for now. 

I thought the Leo struck a nice balance between speed and maneuverability (the rocker helped compensate for the length). The High-Volume (HV) offering was also great for my size (6′ 2″, 195 lbs). And even though there were some redundancies when it came to storage, I appreciated having several waterproof hatches to work with on this trip. As I expected, the Leo performed beautifully on the Class 1 and very gentle Class 2 whitewater that we encountered. 

Paddle for kayak touring

When touring with the Paddling Kings you gotta have a worthy saber. I chose the Aqua Bound Whiskey Carbon Bent Shaft Paddle. The full carbon blade/shaft design made this a super light package, which is clutch on longer trips.

Backup paddle

My backup paddle (that's right folks, gotta expect the unexpected) was the Aqua Bound Manta Ray hybrid paddle (carbon shaft/reinforced nylon blades). I often use this as my primary paddle too. It has the advantages of being extra-durable and much more affordable than full-carbon paddles.

Bonus note

The weather was so Canadian-esque on this trip that I opted for some pogies. They attach directly onto the paddle, keeping your hands protected. They aren't quite as warm or dry as full-on paddling gloves, but they have the added advantage of improved feel and performance. When it comes to gloves, I don't love the disconnect that comes from having a layer of neoprene between my hand and the paddle shaft. I'll take the slight trade-off of pogies to boost that proprioception any day. 

Kayak camping clothes

Well, for this special outing I went with my 15-year old polypropylene long sleeve. I think these are really gonna make a comeback this season. For my base layer, I opted for a more modern NRS neoprene top that has a soft, fuzzy layer underneath. I appreciate the utility of neoprene but I don't love the feel of it directly against my skin. This piece solves that problem. 

Layering for colder weather

Even though we were south of the border, I still had to layer up…south of the border. I started with some thick fleece long johns, popped a pair of surf shorts over top, and then capped it all off with a solid pair of dry pants. The latter has built-in socks and a tunnel portion that extends up from the waistband and tucks under my skirt and shirts. This whole gown keeps me warm and dry, even when splashing around in the rapids.  

Kayak touring paddle jacket

I'm a big fan of anorak style jackets. That's why I went with the NRS Riptide Splash Jacket. It has latex gaskets on the wrists, which stops the infamous paddle drip from leaking down my sleeves. At the neck, it has a neoprene gasket. This isn't as waterproof as latex, but it is much more comfortable on this chaffe-prone area.

I knew we weren't going into conditions that would involve much flipping, and I certainly wasn't planning on doing any show-off rolls, so I knew this would be the right blend for the trip. Neoprene gets the job done just fine for rain and basic splashing around. The Riptide also has a built-in hood, which again is handy for when the rain kicks in. And finally, there's another built-in tunnel, which doubles up with the one on my pants. So while not a full-on drysuit, it was pretty darn close. 

Kayaking shoes for camping

On my feet, I went with NRS Boundary Boots. These are absolutely my go-to cold-weather kicks. They're waterproof below the boot-cuff, they have neoprene insulation, they have a flexible sole (but still enough integrity for any terrain), and they are just all-around comfortable boots.  

Kayaking spray skirt

NRS has me outfitted from nearly top to bottom. In this case, the Drylander Sprayskirt got me through comfortably. It has a tight rand, which gives it a nice seal on the kayak. This thing is designed to take some hits and really stays on when you need it to. That said, it also has a built in rip-cord so it's easy enough to take off when the time comes. 

Kayaking PFD

The Zen Rescue PFD (personal flotation device) by (you guessed it) NRS, is another classic go-to of mine. I love the big central pocket for my sunscreen, snacks, and my chapstick (don't discount this little guy on cold, wet outings). It also has an even bigger, fleece-lined pocket for occasional hand-warming breaks. 

How to pack for an overnight kayak trip

Keep in mind that the P&H Sea Kayaks Leo came with three hatches (one in the front, two in the back), plus I opted for an additional day-hatch, which sits right in front of the cockpit. In the larger back hatch, I packed my water-proof trail runners/end of the day camp-shoes (which I strategically wrapped in an old grocery bag).

Sleeping bag and tent storage

I also stuffed my Big Agnes, heavy-duty sleeping bag, along with my tent and some cooking fuel, in the back hatch. These were all individually dry-bagged. A quick note, even when hatches are labeled as waterproof, I wouldn't ever bank on this being perfectly accurate. Anything that you need to keep dry, put it in a dry bag. However, I know these can add bulk, and so I'll skip this sometimes for things that are fine to get wet, or will dry out quickly when I get to camp. Something worth considering. 

Snack storage

In the standard-issue back day-hatch, I kept some extra snacks. As I mentioned in my full-review, I would have preferred just one big hatch in the back. I find that a smaller day-hatch, if it's behind you, is hard to reach while paddling. 

Throw rope storage behind the back-band

Rounding out the back section, I stashed a throw-bag behind my back-band. This is a must-have for any river adventure, and it needs to be somewhere immediately accessible. 

First-aid kit and more snack storage

Moving up front, the add-on day-hatch made a lot more sense to me. I put yet more snacks, a first-aid kit, and my trustee GoPro so that I could capture lots of spontaneous footage. In-between the day-hatch and the main-hatch I anchored my Gearlab Deck Pod V2, which is great for more quick-access goodies. It's compatible with a hydration pack, in case you prefer sucking on a bladder versus fumbling with water bottles. I was happy to see that the new version came with some clips that easily attached to my kayak's deck bungees. 

Finally, in the front-hatch, I stashed a couple more dry bags with all of my clothes, cooking gear, and a sleeping pad. I like to pack lighter gear in the ends of the kayak and shift heavier stuff to the middle, whenever feasible. 

Extra Tip on Kayak Camping

I had extra space in front of the footpegs, which is a rarity for me (shout-out to P&H and their High-Volume kayaks), so I hid one more dry bag full of extra cold-weather clothes. It's one thing to stay warm when you're paddling up a storm, but it's quite another when you're just sitting around camp. I highly recommend down-booties! 

Enjoy the water!

So that's how I packed for my two-day, river-running trip. The conditions weren't exactly the respite from the Canadian climate I was hoping for, but when it comes to paddling, it isn't so much bad conditions as it is inadequate gear. Thankfully, I had what I needed to keep me in good spirits, and that's the main thing. 

I hope you enjoyed this run-down. For more tips, reviews, and adventures, check out PaddleTV.

Disclaimer: This article includes affiliate links where Ken Whiting earns a small commission if you make a purchase at no additional cost to you, but it's a great way to show your support. Thanks!

Other paddling gear I use and recommend

NOTE:  These are affiliate links where I’ll earn a small commission if you make a purchase at no additional cost to you, but it’s a great way to show your support. Thanks!     

FOOTWEAR  

NRS Kicker Remix Shoe  

NRS Boundary Boot  

PADDLING SHIRTS / TOPS  

NRS Guide Long Sleeve Shirt

NRS H2Core Silkweight Shirt  

NRS H2Core Silkweight Long Sleeve Shirt    

NRS Hydroskin Short Sleeve Shirt  

NRS Riptide Splash Jacket    

NRS Flux Dry Top      

PFD’S – LIFE JACKETS

NRS Odyssey PFD   

NRS Zen PFD    

NRS Chinook PFD      

OTHER PADDLING GEAR  

Zoleo Communicator  

NRS Drylander Sprayskirt    

WRSI Current Helmet      

PADDLING SHORTS/BOTTOMS  

NRS Benny Board Short   

NRS Hydroskin Shorts      

SUNGLASSES

WileyX

The post How To Pack for a Kayak Camping Trip appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Do You Need Specific Paddling Clothing?

The answer: yes and no.

When it comes to choosing clothes for paddling, you can pretty much get away with paddling in anything that's in your closet: a raincoat and a sweater would do the trick. BUT, that doesn't mean it's going to be comfortable. It might protect you from some elements but there are better pieces on the market to do the job.

Geography – It’s More Important Than You Think

Another thing to consider is the environment you paddle in. If you live in a place where variations in temperature are commonplace, or have very consistent water temperatures, it’s going to dictate what kind of gear you buy. I live in Canada, where our paddling seasons are short, but we can extend them by paddling early in spring or late into fall, but it means I’ve had to invest in a number of different options to do this. So let's look at the best paddling tops available.

Cold Weather Paddling

Dry Tops

Let’s start with the best paddling top for cold conditions – the dry top.

Now what makes a dry top a dry top? Latex gaskets at the neck and wrists provide a waterproof, watertight seal, and they really do keep you dry. These are covered by a neoprene gasket to protect the latex, as they can break down in the sun.

They also have a double tunnel system which your kayak skirt goes over top this first tunnel, the second tunnel comes over top of it, it keeps the water out of your boat. The ultimate goal of a good dry top is A) keep water away from your body, and B), keep water from going into your boat through your jacket.

Personally, I find latex gaskets – especially around the neck – pretty uncomfortable. However, it's a necessary evil when the conditions are cold and when you're dealing with really rough water. If this is the case for you, then a dry top is the way to go.

Splash Tops and Anoraks

If you level down from a dry top, you typically land on a splash top, which is my personal favorite type of paddling top.

I particularly like the Riptide from NRS because it’s like a glorified, paddling-specific raincoat. I take it canoe tripping, sea kayak tripping, day trips or multi-day trips. It’s also my go-to jacket for paddling when the conditions are a little harsh.

It still has latex gaskets at the wrist, so your wrists are waterproof. You avoid the dreaded “pit drip” – where you get some water in your cuff from dripping down your paddle, which then runs down your arm, down your back, down your side– a miserable experience when you're already cold.

For me, comfort isn't an issue with this style of paddling top. While having latex gaskets at the wrist is fine, it’s the neck where the discomfort happens, and this type of jacket doesn't have that. Instead, it has a neoprene gasket which is softer but still keeps out 90-95% of the water. It doesn't keep it all out but it's much more comfortable. The anorak style also features a hood, which is great when nasty weather rolls through.

Finally, it still has the double tunnel like a dry top, which keeps a fair bit of water from coming into your kayak. With all that said, this is more of a “bad weather” top, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for paddling in super rough conditions or when you think you’ll need to do a roll.

Warm Weather Paddling

Shorty Splash Jackets

So the water’s getting warmer and the temperatures are starting to soar – but you still need a jacket when you're in rougher conditions, whitewater paddling or sea kayaking.

That’s where a Shorty splash jacket comes in. As the name suggests, it's got short sleeves, but only has neoprene gaskets on the arms and at the neck, so it's comfortable. It's got the same double tunnel system that the two tops mentioned above have, so it’s great for summer surf sessions, as it still keeps a lot of water our when you roll your kayak.

Very comfortable, keeps you warm, cuts the wind down, keeps the water out of your boat – it’s just a great warmer weather splash top for all types of paddling.

Guide/Casual Shirts

If you're not dealing with rough conditions or worried about water getting into your kayak, then you don't need to go as technical with your tops. That said, you should stay away from cotton clothing on the water – it never dries and because of that, it tends to make you really cold.

Let’s say that you’re planning to paddle flat water on a warm day. Since the elements aren’t against you, you can get away with a bit more of a ‘casual’-style top. This is typically something like the Guide Shirt from NRS, it’s a polyester/nylon blend which features flexible, stretchy fabric where you need it for paddling underneath the arms. The best part about something like this is that it’s made from a quick drying and wicking fabric, which helps regulate your body temperature. It's also just a really comfortable shirt to wear on the water that also looks nice, so you can get away with wearing it after your paddle when you meet up for dinner afterwards.

Now a little bit more technical is the H2Core top. This is a polyester spandex blend, which makes it very stretchy. The version I have is the ‘silkweight’ version, which feels really nice against your skin as well as being quick drying and wicking. It's a great base layer and general-purpose top for under your lifejacket.

I always use the short-sleeved version because then I can wear it on it’s own or under my shorty dry top. There's long sleeve versions of this too, and they’re also great under your splash top or dry top, as they allow for a nice buffer between your dry top and your skin.

So there you have it, the five best paddling tops I use whether I'm sea kayaking, whitewater kayaking, rec kayaking, stand-up paddling or rafting…anything. Anytime I'm on the water I’m using at least one of the options above, and a couple I even wear a lot of the time off the water. Did I miss anything? I’d love to hear about it in the comments below!

Check out PaddleTV

I hope you enjoyed this article. For more information, check out my gear reviews, tips, and adventures on PaddlingTV.

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The post How to Choose a Paddling Top appeared first on Hazeadventure.